Debutante Clothing :: A vintage clothing and fashion blog for unconventional style where vintage and runway meet.

Debutante Clothing :: The DebLog

August 24, 2010

Debutante Clothing's 5th Anniversary Vintage Giveaway

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Can you believe it? Five years ago today, I reluctantly started a blog for my vintage e-shop Debutante Clothing. My dear friend, and moblogging maven Jen Hanen, encouraged me to blog as a way to release some of my pent up creative energy and to market my vintage wares.

After about six months, I was hooked! I loved writing about my passion, I made friends all over the world. It was much more quiet in the blogosphere back then. Now, there are a ton of bloggers, vintage and otherwise, and I couldn't be happier, but I know I have to work it to keep with you youngins.I swear internet years are like dog years. Which would make Debutante Clothing 35 years old! Gulp. We're the same age!

I'm so honored and grateful that some of you have stuck by me for this long. And even if you are a new reader or customer, thank you so much for taking the time to read my ramblings and browsing my shop.

For this golden anniversary (since these are internet years, I don't think I need to follow the traditional anniversary guide) YOU, dear readers, get the presents!

I am giving away one of the following three items to one of you. Here's what you have to do:

You have to enter by Tuesday Aug. 31 at 12am PST

Good luck! And thanks for your love, friendship and loyalty! Here's to 5 more years.

vintage dior clutch vintage Christian Dior flat clutch

vintage dvf carry on train case vintage Diane Von Furstenberg tapestry carry on train case

vintage 24K gucci bracelet vintage 24K Gucci green bracelet

vintage ysl scarf wrap foulard vintage Yves Saint Laurent silk wrap scarf
image via Chronically Vintage

August 6, 2010

Vintage Inspired | The Material Girl Is Back


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If you grew up in the 80s like I did, then you worshiped Madonna, to some degree, especially in your early teens. I recall going to the swap meet to buy neon colored studded belts that wrapped around twice, neon ankle socks, rubber bracelets and Wayfarer knock offs. The pièce de résistance? My lace communion gloves of which I promptly cut off the fingers - yes I was grounded for that.

For most of us, we still think about those early forays into fashion and pop culture with warm nostalgia. So when I heard of the Material Girl line for Macy's, I was thrilled to see Madonna and child bring back some of the fun pieces that made the 80s such a great time in fashion.

Madonna's beautiful daughter, Lourdes, is getting a first rate education in entrepreneurship and style. Of course I was concerned with the decency level of the collection. I mean, do you really want your 13-year-old wearing a belt that says "Boy Toy"? But it seems Madonna, at least in promos, is a normal mom. She gives Lourdes a bit of room to express herself through her clothing, but does set some limits. Reminds me of my mom. Minus the empire.

I was quite pleased to see the pieces in the collection. I don't have a daughter, but I do have a niece and I'd love to buy her some of items in the collection such as the plaid shirts and jackets. She's a bit young for the skirts and shorts, but I'm sure she's going to try her luck.

The Material Girl collection is available now at Macy's. How about you? Would you let your teen girl wear Material Girl?


P.S. I had no idea that the photograph in the background, one of the images from the Like a Virgin album, was photographed by Steven Meisel!

July 22, 2010

Vintage Inspired | 1950s Cat Eye Sunglasses

There is one style of sunglasses that I feel is universally flattering. Whether you have chipmunk cheeks like me (yeah I know wrinkles are less evident with chubby cheeks) or a perfectly heart shaped face, cat eyes are the slightly flared jean of the eye wear world. While its hey day was in the 1950s, the cat eye has been reinterpreted every single decade since then.

In the 1960s, we saw tortoise shell cat eyes. in the 1970s, we saw a larger, more exaggerated upsweep such as my fave YSL sunglasses purchased from Market Publique.They were a hit at the TwoPointOhLA picnic, where this picture was taken.

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The 1980s saw a resurgence of Rockabilly and with it, colorful cat eyes in wild patterns.

With the 1950s style making a come back, as seen on the Louis Vuitton runway for Fall 2010, the classic feline shape is the eye wear du jour.

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sunglasses top: John Galliano, middle and bottom Sonia Rykiel (212) 369-3606

I'm really loving the Sonia Rykiel sunglasses. The rhinestone pair are such a fun exaggeration of 1950s rhinestone cat eyes and the bottom black rimmed ones are classic and cool.

What about you? Are you sporting vintage or vintage inspired cat eyes this summer? Show us!


P.S. If you're looking for some professional advice on how to shop for vintage eyewear or quality manufacturers of reproduction vintage glasses, check out my article with optometrist & vintage dealer, Robert Alvarez.

June 30, 2010

Vintage Jewelry | Elva Fields Has a New Collection


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If you love vintage jewelry, especially costume and huge cocktail ready pieces, then you probably already worship Elva Fields. Inspired and made with vintage pieces, her stunning statement necklaces are both glamorous and whimsical.

There is a brand new summer collection available on the web. Alas, the top three pieces I immediately plopped my credit card down to purchase were already sold out! You've got to move fast for these babies. Check out the new collection at ElvaFields.com.

June 30, 2010

Vintage Inspired | Jewelry Talk with Trina Turk


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I'm so excited to share with you my latest article for Today's Vintage magazine. I interviewed one of my all time favorite designers, Trina Turk. We focused on her new jewelry line which, no surprise, is heavily influenced by vintage costume jewelry from her very own, personal collection. The gives me the inside scoop on what the next collection will look like. I can't wait to see it in her stores. I'm thinking a road trip to Palm Springs to see it is in order! Who's with me?!

Read the full article on Today'sVintage.com, or you can pick up a copy of the magazine at your local antique store or mall.


Update: Elena of Fabulous Finds has also been bitten by the Trina Turk jewelry bug. She found an amazing necklace you have to see!

June 27, 2010

Vintage Sale | Vintage Chanel Handbags at Billion Dollar Babes


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BillionDollarBabes.com always has the best selection of vintage Chanel. Don't miss this sale! Need an invite? No problem! Tell them Sandra at DebutanteClothing.com sent you!


June 21, 2010

Vintage Sale | Vintage Gucci Handbags at Billion Dollar Babes


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BillionDollarBabes.com is having a vintage Gucci handbag sale. GREAT prices for classic vintage Gucci styles.

Need an invite? No problem! Click here to get some vintage Gucci now!

June 1, 2010

Vintage Inspired | Rudi Gernreich Meets Hayden-Harnett Monokini


hayden harnett monokini Hayden-Harnett has just sent out their summer shopping newsletter. My eye popped with vintage excitement when I saw this very chic, very vintage inspired monokini. The bold, mod cutouts and plunging V neck give this swimsuit equal parts glamour and sexy edge. I can only imagine that the design team at Hayden-Harnett loves the genius and scandalous Rudi Gernreich as much as I do. Genius for creating swimsuits look like the equivalent of the little black dress. Scandalous for making a completely topless bathing suit. The Hayden-Harnett swimsuit is such a fabulous modern twist on an iconic classic. This suit is definitely on my summer must have list.



1959 Rudi Gernreich swimsuit FuzzyLizzie.com

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Rudi Gernreich exhibit
Institute of Contemporary Art, University of Pennsylvania



May 4, 2010

Check Out My Vintage Inspired Finds From Marshalls! Vote for me.

The nice folks at Rocket XL contacted me about taking a little shopping trip to one of my must shop stores - Marshalls! When I'm not picking for vintage, I'm picking at discount stores like Marshalls for modern clothes that compliment my vintage sensibilities. I was extremely happy to oblige them. It's a dirty job, I know.

I walked into my local Marshalls and made a beeline for the shoes. The Upland, CA store happens to have a huge selection of shoes in their Shoe Shop. And check out what mama bought...


pink espadrilles

jessica simpson patent wedges


The pink espadrilles look like little ballet slippers don't they? I especially love he organza bow and ribbon ties. They're so sweet. And they are made in Spain!

I bought the patent wedges for the complete opposite effect. These wedges have that edgy, vampy look I love to add to pair of jeans or an overly girly dress. They're my tough chick sandal for the summer. Plus I look super tall in them!

And both of these shoes go great with this adorably vintage inspired, fitted bodice and flouncy skirt dress...


max studio dress

I love the khaki and black color combination and the sheer organza overlay. It lets a little of the khaki peek through.

Best part? How little I spent.

Espadrilles $ 24.99
Jessica Simpson patent wedges $ 34.99
Max Studio Dress $ 34.99

God I love Marshalls!

If you liked what I bought at Marshalls, please vote for me. Me and nine other bloggers are showing off what we bought and competing for a grand prize of a $250 shopping spree!

April 28, 2010

Vintage Clothing | Just Added Vintage de la Renta & Adorable Spring Dresses

The vintage dresses are waiting for you in the Debutante Clothing SHOP!

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April 27, 2010

Vintage Events | Vintage Expo & Madame Grés Spotted

This past Saturday, Mary Kincaid of Zuburbia and I hit the Santa Monica Vintage Expo. I love shopping with Mary because we get to talk shop while oohing and ahing over beautiful vintage couture. Many of my online vintage fashionista friends were going to be at the show including Jessica of My Vintage Vogue and Julie of Fab Gabs Vintage. I missed Jessica and Melanie of Wrecked Stellar, but I did find Julie's booth and quickly bought an impeccable 1940s little bag.

fab gabs vintage

The highlight of the day had to be the cranberry colored Madame Grés wool dress Mary and I spotted on our way out of the expo. We couldn't believe we were in such close proximity to a dress designed by the master of draping. The owner of the dress had a little note sitting under the dress asking if anyone knew anything about the couturier. We were eager to talk to her about Madame Alix Grés and how she came to own this dress.

madame alix gres dress

The dress was definitely not typical of what we have come to equate with Grés. Although there was some ruching at the bust, long, flowy, draped gowns, hand pleating, and bias cuts are what Grés is known for. However she did start tailoring pieces in the 1950s and this dress was exquisitely tailored.

it just goes to show, you never know what you will come across at the Vintage Expo!

April 20, 2010

Vintage TV | Vintage Fashion Auctioneer Karen Augusta On Elizabeth Hawes

If you've ever read the Washington D.C. based fashion blog, Fashion Is Spinach, you've probably wondered where on Earth the unique name came from. Elizabeth Hawes was a little known fashion designer that was well ahead of her time. Vintage expert Karen Augusta shares her Elizabeth Hawes treasures and her personal connection to the designer. Enjoy!

P.S. If anyone owns a copy of Hawes' book, Fashion Is Spinach, I'd love to hear your opinion on it! I love vintage style guides.

March 26, 2010

110 Years of Fashion Panel at California Market Center Discusses Vintage Influence


CMC WGSN 110 Years of Fashion

Sue Wong, Doris Raymond, Sally Lohan

In my world, vintage fashion and fashion history don't really live in a vacuum. As much as I love vintage clothing and accessories, I don't consider myself a scholar like my friend Heather Vaughan. My real passion lies in that intersection between vintage and its influence on modern clothing.

This topic is precisely what fashion designer Sue Wong, Katherine Brandes, Creative Director of BB Dakota, fashion author and Apparel News journalist, Allison Nieder, vintage expert Doris Raymond, and WGSN's West Coast Content Director Sally Lohan discussed at the 110 Years of Fashion History: How Vintage Inspires 21st Century Trends discussion panel which took place at the California Market Center. My heart skipped a beat when i received the invitation!

What is vintage?


Each panelist answered the age old question "What is vintage?" Doris had the most precise definition. She felt that anything older than the late 1980s is vintage in her book. You can watch what she says about the 1990s coming into the vintage marketplace in the video interview I did with her. Sally Lohan added that her definition of vintage also includes quality and craftsmanship. Sue Wong feels that vintage has to have a "lot of soul".

When asked about some of their favorite eras Sue Wong shared her fascination with the elements of the 1920s and '30s. Katherine preferred the cinched waists of the 1940s and '50s. Doris Raymond prefers the 1930s like Wong, but was able to narrow it down to 1929-1932. She loves the bias cuts of Vionnet. Sally loves Paul Poiret and Fortuny.

CMC WGSN 110 Years of Fashion
Doris Raymond and me in vintage

Vintage As Inspiration

The panelists agreed that fashion pre-1960s was the easiest to interpret in contemporary fashion. Sue Wong prefers to look at individual details and silhouettes when looking for inspiration for her designs.

Leave it to me to ask the question that made Sue Wong and Doris Raymond engage in an intelligent debate. I wasn't fishing for a debate, but was genuinely curious what designers vs. vintage professionals thought on the subject - when does inspiration cease being

inspiration and becomes a copy?

The example I had in mind was that beaded antique bag I knew had been sold by a vintage dealer I know to Anna Sui and ended up on the runway in the exact same colors and exact same pattern.

The discussion really surprised me. Sally Lohan quickly jumped on the question and her reaction was complete disapproval. Sue Wong agreed. Doris actually had a different opinion. She felt that giving a a vintage garment life again, even if it is in its original design is ok. Otherwise it would never have been appreciated again. The conversation got pretty lively as far as panels go.

Vintage Trends

Some of the vintage influenced trends identified for upcoming seasons are romantic floral prints, boudoir and lingerie, classic seasonless items. Sue Wong predicts vintage looks from the teens to 1920s for a more avant garde look. Doris believes people will shop for investments versus trendy items.

Consumers

There seems to be two types of consumers when it comes to true vintage. The general public and designers. The general public is buying contemporary vintage inspired as well as vintage. Tips were offered on how to look for quality vintage - turn the garment inside out, check seams, feel the fabric. Sue Wong warned about fraudulent sellers trying to tap into the vintage market by selling new items, taking the tags out and claiming they are vintage dresses. She found one of her own beaded, flapper inspired dresses on Ebay being sold as a 1920s dress!

CMC WGSN 110 Years of FashionCynthia Dipierro, WGSN, Sally Lohan, Doris Raymond, Liz Moore, Los Angeles Confidential magazine

The panel discussion was followed by a lovely reception in a very Schiaparelli pink carpeted room. it was great to be in a room full of people who embrace vintage and contemporary fashion with both arms. And now with the collaboration between WGSN and Doris Raymond to create a specialized vintage directory, it seems what's old is new again and it will continue to make it's way to the runway.

March 15, 2010

Shopping | Kerry Taylor Auctions & Topshop to Help the Aging


dita von teese 1930s inspired dress


Kerry Taylor Auctions
is having a bumper sale with over 300 lots, which opens with a collection of celebrity-owned dresses being auctioned by Topshop, in aid of the charities Help the Aged and Age Concern. The collection includes a wonderful Lanvin S/S 2003 cocktail dress from Kate Moss and a beautiful siren gown by Zac Posen, worn by Erin O'Connor, as well as others from Scarlett Johannson and Dita von Teese, and dresses by exciting young designers like Christopher Kane and Danielle Scutt. The rest of the sale covers every decade from the 18th century to the 1990s, and includes dozens of beaded flapper dresses, a stylish 1960s Balenciaga coat, and Thierry Mugler suits from 1980s. The fashion is accompanied by wonderful accessories, including twenties shoes, Hermes handbags, embroidered samplers, boxes of trimmings and much more.

Venue: Kerry Taylor warehouse - Unit C25, (second floor) 40 Martell Road, West Dulwich, London, SE21 8EN

On view: Sunday 14th March 12 noon - 4.30pm; Monday 15th March 9.30am-5pm. THERE IS NO VIEWING ON THE MORNING OF THE SALE

March 10, 2010

Vintage Inspiration | Bonwit Teller vs. Alexander McQueen Fall 2010

I didn't want to be all tacky and blatantly show off my inventory while still mending a broken heart left by the breathtaking McQueen collection, but...

vintage velvet cape

Isn't this cape hauntingly similar to the red Alexander McQueen cape? Now I don't know if I can part with it.

March 10, 2010

Runway | Alexander McQueen's Final Collection


Alexander McQueen's last collection was shown this week. As only McQueen could, his final show is rich in opulent fabrics, trim, rooted in history, and yet unlike anything we have seen before. Alexander McQueen was one of the only designers that appealed to my eclectic, and often disjointed style preference. He was the master of edgy couture, luxe punk rock, and yet had the craftsmanship to make clothing that made you think "Yea, I can wear that."

In his final collection, you see his use of luxury fabrics and trim - satin, gold embroidery  - done in a new an unexpected way, yet obviously influenced by ancient history. How many modern designers can be described that way? I wanted to share a few of my favorite pieces...

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You can see the entire collection at WWD.com or AlexanderMcQueen.com

February 26, 2010

Vintage Designer | Lily Allen Sells Her Soul to Vintage

lily allen vintage clothing line
Photo:GF/bauergriffinonline.com

The always adorable Lily Allen is getting ready to launch her new, reworked vintage clothing line. Her line is called Lucy in Disguise. A cute play on the Beatles song I presume.

Designer Wayne Hemingway a summer festival celebrating British music and fashion. Sandie Shaw, Heaven 17, Aswad, Buzzcocks and The Damned will be some of the acts performing at Vintage at Goodwood in West Sussex in August.

Earlier this year, Allen had announced she would be taking a break from music. Her new endeavors include this collection of reworked vintage clothing. She is partnering with her sister and some friends.

I know people often criticize celebrities who think they can launch a clothing line, act, sing, and basically anything under the sun. But in the case of musicians, I think they actually have a firmer connection to fashion than actors or socialcelebutantes like Paris and Whitney.

lamb spring 2010

Gwen Stefani has been very successful with her L.A.M.B. line. I own a few pieces and the quality is pretty good. But the reality is that I buy L.A.M.B. because Gwen Stefani's aesthetic and style is similar to mine. A musician uses fashion pretty much the same we do - as an extension of their influences and to express themselves. While onstage costumes are exaggerated for presence, it's easy to translate that look to the real world. With the exception of Lady Gaga, although her sunglasses are flying off the shelves.

Many musician/fashion icons come to mind - Debbie Harry, Cindy Lauper, Madonna. Can you tell I am an 80s baby? Granted none of these women designed a line, but they sure have gone down in fashion history as being highly influential in their style.

Reworking vintage is not new, and am quite surprised Allen has decided at this stage in her career that she wants to redesign vintage, of all things. She obviously really loves vintage looks. I hope Lily Allen is educated enough in fashion history not to go and redesign important pieces. I wait on pins and needles to see her stuff.

I'm curious what do you think - do musicians have what it takes to launch a fashion line?

photo L.A.M.B. Spring 2010/Coutorture.com

February 24, 2010

Vintage Jewelry | Q&A with Lucite line Circa Sixty Three


vintage lucite jewelry by circa 63


I don't know one vintage dealer or collector who doesn't fantasize about walking into someone's basement and finding a room full of hardly used, or never used, vintage fashion. It's the stuff urban legends are made of. But in the case of Circa Sixty Three designer, Danielle Insetta, it was an incredible twenty ton find that led to a fashion forward, vintage jewelry line.

I was able to snag an interview with Danielle of Circa Sixty Three who is gracing the pages of WWD Accessories and Marie Claire with her colorful baubles. I love plastic jewelry and collect it myself - Bakelite and Lucite mostly. Many jewelry designers are highly influenced by vintage plastic jewelry including Alexis Bittar. Danielle talks about the big score, her inspiration, and how to find and care for Lucite.

How on Earth does one acquire 20 tons of Lucite jewelry?

You have to search for it and know what you are looking for. There are plenty of vintage beads out there, but to find a stash this big you have to do some research. All of the beads and bangles in our collection originate from the same plastics factory in Providence, RI. I first found the beads in a bead store. I dug around a little online and in a few collectors' books and found the name of the original company, Best Plastics. The dead stock had been stored in the warehouse of a wholesale bead dealer who I came across in my research. Not only did I find the rest of the dead stock in Rhode Island, I found some of the original factory workers. They were able to verify my research on the company. It turns out the company made parts and jewelry for Trifari, Missoni, Diane von Fürstenburg, Lanvin and Givenchy.

Can you describe the collection?

We named this collection "Frontier" because it is inspired by the future and science. It is inspired by the shape of molecules and planets. There is an element of sci-fi throughout the collection. The color palette is sophisticated with a touch of whimsy. For example, we use a bit of neon here and there. The pieces are definitely statement pieces that can be worn for any occasion, whether it be to a dinner, a night club or even to work. They are very versatile. Definitely collectors' pieces, especially due to the fact that the beads are vintage and that the pieces are extremely limited and completely handmade.

Not everything in the collection is original dead stock Lucite. Some pieces are new pieces made from vintage Lucite. What inspires your designs?

I design 100% of the beaded jewelry. The bangle bracelets are the only pieces not designed in house. They are original. I am generally inspired by the space age and the 1960s. I am inspired by the designers of the day such as Paco Rabanne and Andre Courreges. I want to be true to the era in which the beads were manufactured and the designs that were being produced in the day.


Vintage fans will always love Lucite jewelry. How has the rest of the fashion world reacted to the collection?

The collection is novel. There is nothing like it out on the market. It does incorporate trends and is relevant to what is happening now in fashion, but it truly is unique. The main buyers of our wholesale jewelry are high end luxury department stores in the US, Europe and Japan. They are looking for something new. I think that we have seen the same look for several seasons now, and it is time for a change. It does not hurt that Lucite is insanely popular right now. Many, many designers are using the material in their jewelry.

Can you tell us a bit about how to identify Lucite and how to care for it?

Lucite has a certain weight to it as well as a special optical quality. It is not like Bakelite in that it is synthetic. Lucite can be distinguished from ordinary plastic in that it does not have seams. Plastic is poured into a mold which leaves a slight seam on one side. Lucite is carved out of a chunk. It is sculpted using lathes and similar machines so there is no seam. One great thing about Lucite is that if it is scratched, that scratch can be buffed out very easily with a plastic polish. Polish can be found in any hardware store. Lucite is also known as acrylic.

vintage lucite jewelry by circa 63

vintage lucite jewelry by circa 63

vintage lucite jewelry by circa 63

vintage lucite jewelry by circa 63


Check out the entire collection and prepare yourself to be mesmerized by pages of candy-like vintage Lucite jewelry. Visit www.circasixtythree.com

February 19, 2010

Vintage Glamour Inspiration | Pink Palm Springs

PARKER PALM SPRINGS

PARKER PALM SPRINGS

Nothing screams California luxury and glamour like the retro, mid-century rooted city of Palm Springs. The Parker Palm Springs is a boutique hotel designed by vintage inspired wonder-designer Jonathan Adler. Where else in the West is pink the color du jour?

February 2, 2010

1stdibs.com presents Resurrection's 20 years of Maison Martin Margiela

Resurrection, the bicoastal boutique and international source for fine vintage, and 1stdibs.com, whom I mentioned before on the blog, have teamed up to offer a truly unique collection of avant-garde designer Maison Martin Margiela.

"Resurrection's 20 Years of Martin Margiela: The Marcia Berger Collection" is a collection of one of a kind collectible, vintage and artisanal Margiela pieces from 1989 to 2008, owned by the late Marcia Berger. Apparently Ms. Berger was quite the collector. She was the proud owner of one off pieces and several key pieces from each collection. The garments were never even worn. Ms. Berger felt Margiela pieces were works of art and preserved them as such.

I spoke with Resurrection co-owner Mark Haddaway about this unique collection. He explained that Marcia Berger did not work in fashion, she just loved unique, avant-garde fashion including Japanese designers such as Yohji Yamamoto, but loved collecting Margiela most of all. Of the astonishing 1500 Margiela pieces Resurrection is selling in their NY and LA boutiques, 300 will be available on 1stdibs.com.

Being a vintage seller, I know how hard it must be to let go of such collectible pieces. I asked Mark if he was tempted to keep any of them. He slowly replied, "Each piece will be sold." It's got to be the hardest part of this business.

Margiela reminds me so much of Elsa Schiaparelli, especially when you look at this leather glove covered  top. Schiaparelli had a shoe hat, Maison Martin Margiela created split toe, hoof like booties. The surreal influence is uncanny. Ms. Berger was correct to collect and treasure such intriguing works of art.

I for one am dying to see the pieces at the LA store. Maybe I can nab a few images while I'm there for all of you!

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1997 vest

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2001 glove top

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2006 jacket



-photos courtesy of Resurrection Vintage Clothing

January 14, 2010

Vintage Shopping: Customer Service & Etiquette

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If you want the real deal on a shop, you have to read New York Times writer Cintra Wilson's column Critical Shopper. She pulls no punches. But there's no Perez-Hilton-esque snark. She just tells it like it is in a hysterically educated way. So when I read Cintra's review of infamous Lily et Cie in Beverly Hills, CA, it made me think about what kind of customer service is expected in vintage shops, real or virtual.

Lily et Cie got a well deserved lashing for their shitty attitude. But I do understand owner and curator's Rita Watnick protection of delicate, and often valuable, treasures.

When shopping for vintage there are a few guidelines you should keep in mind.

1. Know your size

Seriously I cannot stress this enough. If you know your measurements, you'll know you can't fit into a smaller size. Forgo the humilation and anger of ripping a vintage garment. Go up one size. Never risk it.

2. Handle the garment by the hanger

Vintage silks and rayon are fragile and so are their seams. Handling by the hanger, rahter than the sleeve or skirt will protect the garment from tearing or shredding.

3. Put it back where you found it or give it to the clerk

This is especially true in an antque mall. Don't assume that things can just be left laying around. If you forgot where it goes, simply give it back to the clerk.

Now I know this is coming off all preachy and elitist, but shopping for vintage is not like shopping at your local mall. Some care is needed with older garments.

But there is no way I would encourage you to shop with someone who does not value you as a customer. Stay away from virtual and brick and mortar stores with these red flags:

  • Attitude - seriously there is no excuse!
  • Unhelpful - if the seller can't give you insight about the garment (history, style advice, etc.), then they are just selling "stuff" not vintage. Vintage is an experience.
  • Lack of response - online sellers should respond to you in 1 business day unless otherwise stated.
  • Doesn't go the extra mile - Are clothes cleaned and in good condition? Do they offer care instructions? Do they call or email when they are having sales or found something perfect for you? These are all small things that show what an important client you are.
In today's economy, apparel companies that incorporate these four details are faring well. Nordstrom and Zappos.com are two companies I will always shop with because they have earned my customer loyalty through customer care.

What about you? Which vintage shops have earned your loyalty? What will make you shop elsewhere?


January 4, 2010

Sample Sales This Week

coco chanel on stairs

These aren't all vintage, but Galliano and Posen are very influenced by vintage. Gentlemen, if you are reading, I am willing to shop for vintage for you WHENEVER you like! Aren't a member of these fabulous sample sale sites? Let me invite you! Click on the link and tell them I sent you.

Galliano at Rue La La
Monday, January 4 beginning at 11am EST

Zac Posen at Gilt Groupe
Tuesday, January 5 beginning at 12pm EST

Chanel Vintage at Billion Dollar Babes
Wednesday, January 6 beginning at 11am EST

December 28, 2009

Penelope Cruz in Vintage (again) at Premiere of "Nine"

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Penelope loves the vintage doesn't she? And I love her for it. Ms. Cruz wore a stunning red vintage Chanel gown to the premiere of Nine. Although the film has received mixed reviews from my online friends (the only opinions I trust), I'm willing to pay $10 to check out the costumes.

Doesn't she look stunning? I wish her lipstick color for L'Oreal, Penelope's Red, had been as beautiful a red as this. It was not a good red. Take some color guidance from Chanel Penelope!

photo: Getty Images
source Elle.com

December 11, 2009

Audrey Goes to Auction

audrey hepburn auction

My latest article for Today's Vintage magazine is online now. It's all about the amazing Audrey Hepburn collection that went to auction at Kerry Taylor Auctions in London. I could not believe the volume of historically important dresses and haute couture gowns that were up for grabs.

Here's a snippet...


Going, going, chic! Audrey Hepburn Collection Goes to Auction

Whether you love her as Holly Golightly or a bored princess looking for adventure in Rome, Audrey Hepburn was a major style icon of the 20th century. Her beauty, her grace, but most of all her style, caused the world to fall in love with her. And now the public can own a piece of fashion history and iconic chic when Kerry Taylor Auctions presents a collection of Audrey Hepburn couture and accessories on Dec. 8, 2009 in London.

The Collection

Around thirty six items of clothing will be offered, dating from 1953 to the late 1960s as well as hats, belts and a fascinating group of letters in which she describes an early film break, her proposed wedding to James Hanson, and the time she spent filming Roman Holiday.

The collection includes stunning evening-wear including a plethora of chic little black dresses by Valentino, Elizabeth Arden and of course her favorite designer of all - Hubert de Givenchy.

Simplicity and elegance was her trademark and it is evident in the Kerry Taylor Auctions collection. Hepburn became the personification of chic elegance in the 1950s and 60s. Givenchy said of her "All the responsibility for the way Audrey looked is hers. She made the selections." Hepburn and Givenchy had a mutual admiration of one another. For Funny Face in 1957 and many of her other major films, Audrey had it written into her film contracts that Givenchy would make all the clothes she wore and also astutely had it agreed that she retain the majority of her Parisian wardrobe.

Check out the rest at TodaysVintage.com

The final numbers are in and it appears that the collection has earned a whopping £542,040! Given that most of this will go to charity, I'm sure all parties were pleased.

audrey hepburn auction

One particular dress, the black chantilly lace gown worn by Audrey Hepburn in the film "How to Steal a Million" in 1965, is rumored to have been purchased by Victoria Beckham. I hope she cherishes it and doesn't deconstruct it to be used as inspiration for another line!

If you want the real scoop, please check out my dear friend and colleague's, Jeanne Suica, blog. Not only was she there, she helped with the catalogueing and research of the collection. AND she got to meet Hubert de Givenchy himself. I hope she shares the experience here. Hint, hint Jeanne!

November 18, 2009

High Style: Betsy Bloomingdale and the Haute Couture

Two Saturdays ago, I experienced  a day full of haute couture and style. The Costume Society of America, Western Region hosted a curator led tour and premiere documentary screening of High Style: Betsy Bloomingdale and the Haute Couture at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising. Curators Kevin Jones and Christina Johnson led us through this magical, privileged world of haute couture and high fashion. We took a curated walk through Mrs. Betsy Bloomingdale's wardrobe, overflowing with Givenchy, Balmain, Galanos, Adolfo, and of course, Dior. To be that close to real live haute couture worn by one of the last remaining wearers of haute couture was an amazing experience.

betsy bloomingdale haute couture

betsy bloomingdale haute couture

Mrs. Bloomingdale was the wife of businessman, Alfred Bloomingdale, a descendant of the famous Bloomingdales that found the iconic department store. Mr. Bloomingdale made is fortune in the credit card business as co-founder of the first independent credit card, Diner's Club. He wanted to bring his business to France. This was the beginning of the beautiful beginning of Betsy's relationship with some of the most important couture houses of the 20th century.

In the documentary, which unfortunately will not be released to mass media, Mrs. Bloomingdale reminisces fondly about the glory days of shopping in Paris at the couture houses of Balmain and Dior. "I had no idea I was collecting anything so important," says Mrs. Bloomingdale. She recalls how shopping for haute couture was such a quiet experience. Society ladies met for lunch in Paris and attended the shows at 3pm. There wasn't much sound, just stunning gowns parading through the show room. No fanfare, no theatrics, just the ladies and the gowns.


betsy bloomingdale haute couture

betsy bloomingdale haute couture
Christina Johnson, Betsy Bloomingdale, and Kevin Jones at opening night of exhibit

Betsy's world of couture spanned about 30 years. Her first purchase was at the house of Balmain in 1961 and she faithfully attended couture shows until 1996.

Walking through the FIDM museum was visually overwhelming. Three galleries were punctuated with gowns and ensembles that looked like sculpture.

Mount maker Carolyn Jamerson gave us a detailed tutorial on how to create invisible garment forms. I have to be honest and admit that this wasn't nearly as important to me as some of the other CSA members considering that many of them are involved in curating and museum studies. I just love clothes. They could hang on a hanger for all I care. Until I saw the garments displayed in the galleries. I was mesmerized by the artistic display of clothing. They were almost an optical illusion - a parade of floating silk, lace and satin. It was a stunning display.

Kevin Jones, who was as entertaining as he was educational, explained that FIDM now has custody of around 200 croquis from Christian Dior. Croquis were the hand colored reproductions of the designer's original sketches with a swatch of fabric attached. Christina Johnson, co-curator, told a funny story of how these wonderful croquis were decorating office walls. Aye!

If you can't make it to the gritty streets of Downtown LA to see the exhibit, you can purchase the catalog at the FIDM Museum gift shop. The exhibit ends December 13. Check FIDM's website for more details.

August 25, 2009

Vintage Betsey Johnson Videos and Top

Betsey Johnson has released a collection of fashion show videos from her archives. They are so much fun to watch and I challenge you to walk away after just one. When you think about how long Betsey Johnson has been in the business, you can bet her energy and stamina have kept the label going strong since the 1970s!

Without sounding all Project Runway on you, you can see Betsey Johnson in her collections year after year. When you see a BJ outfit, you know it's her. Her designs are always fun, youthful, quirky, romantic but with a bit of edge.

As a fashion collector and vintage dealer, I'm always thrilled to find any form of media that contains a piece I own. It concretely dates the garment. Imagine my surprise when I saw the matching skirt to a vintage Betsey Johnson top I own. I shrieked! At 6:20, we enter the Kibbutz room in the multi-themed room fashion show of Fall 1982. I didn't see my top but it doesn't seem like we get to see all the models.

The top may not have a lot of value - I don't collect Betsey Johnson pieces for that reason. But I am so proud to own a piece of subculture fashion history.

vintage betsey johnson punk label top

Betsey Johnson and Vivienne Westwood are the doyennes of high end, subculture fashion. They brought street, music -namely punk -influence to the runway. Even BJ's label is punk rock!

August 14, 2009

The Brooklyn Circus - Combing Vintage and Modern in Menswear

When I shop for vintage, either for myself or the shop, I get the biggest rush out of finding men's vintage clothing. It's rare! Men in general don't purchase as much clothing as we ladies do. And you know how men love to wear things out until they are falling apart.

I recently came across this label and store, The Brooklyn Circus. Their whole mantra is to bring the old to the modern. They don't won't to live in the past, but they certainly draw from it. From using vintage circus posters as inspiration for T-shirt graphics to images of dandies in tweed ensembles.

I love how they add small bits of modern edge to clothing designs that are as beautiful now as they were back then. They have an excellent eye for style. These clothes are dapper yet still masculine. I could definitely see Mr. Debutante in that tweed cap. Check them out.


August 3, 2009

Vintage Find - 1930's Vintage Schiaparelli Brooch

If fashion designers were rock stars, the biggest punk girl would be Elsa Schiaparelli. Most noted for her signature "shocking pink", Schiaparelli's designs in the 20s and 30s flew in the face of fashion convention. This is the woman who dared to place zippers on couture. This is the artist who designed a dress to feature a skeletal back. This is the artist who collaborated with an artist of a different medium - Salvador Dali. Schiaparelli elevated fashion to art. Surrealist art. One of her fun icons was the lobster. She created a stunning gown with a giant red lobster on the skirt.

lobster dress schiaparelli


While this week's Vintage Find is not signed, this sparkly red lobster is attributed to Elsa Schiaparelli. It has appeared in the book Miller's Costume Jewelry by Stephen Miners, but some will argue that without a signature or provenance, you have no idea if it truly is a Schiaparelli piece. I think this little lobster is so fabulous, and so Elsa, that it might not matter either way.

schiaparelli lobster brooch

available at Rubylane/Sharon's Sparkles, $225

June 16, 2009

Vintage at CFDA

The Council of Fashion Designers of America awards took place on Monday night. I had mentioned that Tracey Ullman would be wearing vintage Claire McCardell - completely appropriate as she is one of the best American designers in fashion history. She also wore a McCardell inspired dress designed by Doo.Ri. I think the neckline is very Claire McCardell - chic without too much fuss.


It seems others wore either vintage or vintage inspiration...

all images from WWD.com

If you happen to see an image around the interwebs of Ms. Ullman in her fabulous vintage McCardell dress, please let me know!

June 10, 2009

Q&A with Vintage Costume Jewelry Maven Carole Tanenbaum

vintage art deco brooch

There is no doubt that our First Lady has brought style back to the White House. On inauguration day, all eyes were watching for what Michelle Obama would be wearing, oh and the inauguration of the President too of course. One woman was behind the dazzling brooch that set off the ensemble Isabel Toledo had created. That woman was none other than the dame of bijoux - Carole Tanenbaum.

Carole Tanenbaum has been in the vintage costume jewelry business for 25 years. Her online store, Carole Tanenbaum Vintage Collection, has been a mecca for high end, collectible vintage costume jewelry. She has accessorized everyone from Natalie Portman to Sarah Jessica Parker to First Lady Michelle Obama. Carole was gracious enough to answer a few burning questions I had.

People who have a passion for fashion always explain their infatuation by stating that fashion is art - another form of expression. Carole Tanenbaum proves this statement true. There is no doubt that her former life in art collecting and dealing was training for the small pieces of art she has so lovingly and passionately collected.

carole.jpg

Meet Carole Tanenbaum...

DC: How did you know you wanted your life's work to be in costume jewelry?

CT: Sometimes experiences in life dictate where you go and what you do. I have always been a collector - of art, vintage quilts, etc. My primary business was fine art consulting. It was when, on a trip to London, about 28 yrs ago, that I stumbled on a small but very select collection of Vintage Costume Jewelry and fell in love. As a collector, I made it my mission to purchase as many pieces as I loved, until a few yrs later, I amassed several thousand jewels. I had no intention of going into this business ,as I was very happy buying and selling art. But I approached Holt Renfrew, Canada to see if they were interested in doing a trunk show (1994). They were smitten, gave me my own dept (!) And that was the beginning of CTVC.

DC: You provide jewelry for so many celebrities, even First Lady Michelle Obama. Are the famous more daring when it comes to jewelry?

CT: Most stars are not daring in their tastes. They gravitate towards pieces that are "safe". There are a few exceptions however. Sarah Jessica Parker is extremely creative, not only with her choices, but with the unconventional way she wears her pieces, her placements. Mrs Obama also makes unusual choices, and mixes vintage with contemporary.

DC: Michelle Obama has become quite the fashion icon. How did you feel being one of the people responsible for dressing First Lady Michelle Obama?

CT: Michelle has been wearing CTVC well before the election. But I was surprised and extremely proud that she chose one of our early, historical brooches for the inauguration, when she could certainly have worn Fred Leighton, Harry Winston, or anyone. It was a unique choice, and one fitting with the times.

DC: You have provided many pieces of jewelry to film and television productions, most recently Grey Gardens with Jessica Lange and Drew Barrymore. What is your process when it comes to suggesting pieces for the screen?

CT: When we are selecting jewelry for film, we work with the stylist (s) in charge. They usually select in segments, as the film progresses. Each visit, they chose for a particular outfit(s) . They either give us very clear descriptions -color, scale, period etc, or they bring in the outfits. They generally over select, bring the pieces to the set and make a selection from there, within a day or two.

DC: When you are acquiring pieces for your collection, what do you gravitate to the most?

CT: When purchasing for my collection, I gravitate toward jewelry that shows imagination, creativity, and that is well made. I am interested in jewelry that is bold, and that makes a statement. High color; large scale, often small production.

DC: Are designer labels important when it comes to collecting costume jewelry?

CT: Designer labels do not affect my choices. My eye gravitates to the unusual. Many times an unsigned piece is more spectacular than a "ho hum" design by one of vintage's icons.

DC: Who are some of your favorite costume jewelry designers?

CT: Some of my favorite Vintage designers are Schreiner, Early colored Haskell, Sandor, Coppolo e Toppo, Schibensky, Vargas,Bakelite, Dior, and early french pieces.

DC: You wrote a fabulous book titled Fabulous Fakes. Any plans for a follow up book?

CT: I was thinking of writing a book on Schreiner, my absolute favorite. We've done the photography,of about 450 masterpieces, but there is little information about the manufacturer. So, the book would lack the educational tool needed to make it more than a table top book. Otherwise nothing planned in the near future, but you never know!

DC: Are there any costume jewelry designers today that you feel will be future collectibles?

CT: There are so many great designers out there today. I have started to collect Larry Vrba, Robert Sorrell, a bit of David Mandel, Iradj Moini, Alan Anderson (ck my blog on him on www.caroletanenbaum.com, Marni, Missoni, Cavali. All these people have unique ideas, a small production and excellent workmanship - 3 things collectors looks for.
I also like many pieces by Alexis Bitar, Monies, Hendler.

DC: Any tips for aspiring vintage costume jewelry collectors?

CT: I would urge new collectors to educate their eye. There are dozens of bks today on Vintage Costume Jewelry. See what interests you. Buy pieces that are in fine, original condition, well made and that speak to your personal aesthetics. Whether it be a designer, a period, a type of jewelry that draws you in, make sure it's authentic. As vintage becomes more and more popular, there are more fakes on the market, so trust whom you are buying from.

DC: If you had to exit the building to save your life and could only grab one item from your collection, what would it be?

CT: I can never answer that question, as we have over 20,000 pieces, all carefully selected by me . So, if I had to take one treasure with me I would probably take my favorite jewel, my husband!



vintage miriam haskell flower necklace
vintage bakelite cameo
turquoiseclamper.jpg
art deco machine age earrings

June 3, 2009

Vintage Fashion Events - Vionnet and Jean Despres

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Madeleine Vionnet (1876-1975)
18 June 2009 - 24 January 2010

Les Arts Décoratifs is devoting a major exhibition to Madeleine Vionnet. In 1952, the couturière donated 22 dresses, 750 dress patterns and 75 photo albums to Les Arts Décoratifs. Selected from her major works between 1912 and 1939 and now restored with the aid of Natixis, this exceptional collection of avant-garde designs can at last be shown to the public. Madeleine Vionnet's entire career was marked by her constant quest for freedom in extremely refined but unfettered designs close to antique drapery, which continue to fascinate couturiers such as Azzedine Alaia, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and John Galliano.


jean depres art deco bracelet

Bijou Art déco et Avant-garde. Jean Després et les bijoutiers modernes
19 March - 12 July 2009

The exhibition is both a celebration of Art Deco jewellery and of the work of the jeweller and precious metalsmith Jean Després (1889-1980). 180 of this major yet little-known artist's works, inspired by Cubism and machinery, are being shown together for the first time, alongside works by the great names of French jewellery in the 1930s: Jean Fouquet, Gérard Sandoz, Raymond Templier (all three members of the Union des Artistes Modernes), and also by architects (Robert Mallet Stevens), interior designers, (Jean Dunand) and silversmiths (Jean Puiforcat), all illustrating the formidable attraction jewellery exercised over the artists of the period.

May 28, 2009

Christian Louboutin on SALE at Outnet.com


Come get them while they're hot (or available in your size)! If you've ever dreamed about the red sole, here's your chance. TheOutnet.com is offering Christian Louboutin at DEEPLY discounted prices. Sorry for the shouting caps - I'm just so excited!

louboutins1.jpg louboutins2.jpg

May 17, 2009

Web Snob 5/15

coquette diy websnob

All Lacquered Up has your first look at the upcoming OPI SUNBelievable collection.

Allie is Wired, say it isn't so: Spencer Pratt is releasing a rap album.

Bag Bliss pick of the week: the Louis Vuitton Speedy in black Epi.

Bag Snob-- Louis Vuitton Denim bag, Snob or Slob?!

Beauty Snob- Anya Hindmarch Make Up Case for the jet setting snob!

Give your wardrobe a refresh with Coquette's latest DIY fashion picks.

Couture Snob - Steal Mrs. Obama's look!

Enter to win a glamorous vintage inspired swimsuit by Popina at Debutante Clothing

Fab Sugar - spots Kim Kardashian stepping up her fashion game.

Head to Fashion Pulse Daily for a chance to win the latest Yeah Yeah Yeahs CD!

KRISTOPHER DUKES is wanting, using, and hating EcoTools Makeup Brushes.

Second City Style's guide to packing the perfect wardrobe for your travels this summer.

Shopping and Info found out Minka Kelly loves the cross body bag trend a lot!

Shrimpton Couture's Real Life Vintage Spots as seen on bloggers around the net

StyleBakery.com found 10 perfect work-to-weekend dresses under $150.

Got a museum-beach date planned? Stylehive shows you exactly what to wear to look effortlessly chic.

The Beauty Stop shows how to use an egg white mask to shrink pores.

No idea what to wear? The Fashion Bomb gives you 100 Summer Dresses under $150!

The Shoe Goddess can't wait to buy these fabulous Lolo pumps from Christian Louboutin's Fall 2009 Collection!

TheMakeupGirl checks out a few items from the Pur-Lisse skin care line and is loving it!!

Tot Snob - Found the ultimate sippy cup by SIGG

April 30, 2009

Vintage Inspiration - Mod About eenamaria Handbags


eenamaria mod inspired handbags

eenamaria mod inspired handbags

Accessories that marry art and function are my favorite way to punctuate an otherwise ordinary outfit. So when I came across the super Mod and art inspired handbag line eenamaria, I had to contact the designer.  Sarah Morgan has been designing since she was 15-years-old, but it's no wonder since fashion design is in her blood - her grandmother was a fashion designer in Paris. With a degree from Pratt and an appreciation for art, Sarah started eenamaria, a vintage inspired line designed for the modern girl.

Check out my chat with eenamaria designer Sarah Morgan!

When did you start eenamaria?

2004 in the basement of Pratt Institute.


Who is "eenamaria"?

eenamaria is the essence of a woman, the name is taken from my mother, however, if you see the 'about' section of the website, this will give you the full description of who she is.

You come from a long line of artists and creative people. What inspired you to start a handbag line versus a different form of design?

eenamaria is currently only known for its handbags, however, over time we will be launching a clothing line, a perfume line, housewares and anything that the eenamaria woman would want or need to fit with her lifestyle. I am a trained industrial designer, so we are educated to develop an eye for form and function, rather than focus on just one aspect of design.

I love the Mondrian and Mod inspiration. What do you like about these aesthetics?

I have always been a chameleon, so for each group of bags designed and produced, there is a new inspiration. This collection was designed a few years ago, but is becoming the iconic look for eenamaria. I was interested in the look of the sixties and I was thinking about the energy of that time. I like the colors and the simple lines and design features, colorful, but simple.

Are you influenced by any other decades? Which?

The upcoming line is an homage to the 1930s/1940s, a similar era as far as the world climate is concerned. People want uplifting colors and reasons to celebrate, since so much of their world is in flux.


Who is a typical eenamaria girl?

The eenamaria girl is active, bold, an outlier. She probably has aspects to her that are somewhat unusual, maybe she's a sky diving fanatic, or a big Tango dancer, inevitably, the eenamaria girl is an engaged and dynamic woman. Its a spirit more than it is a socio-economic description.

What can we look forward to in your next collection?

Afro-centric dayglo! Think M.I.A for inspiration.


Any plans for expanding into clothing design?

Well, funny you should ask, watch this space.....

Vintage, particularly mid-century design, is hot right now, even amongst the masses. What do you feel is influencing this? How is this affecting eenamaria?

Well, there is always the idea that if you go back 20 years, you will find exactly what influences our current trends. That having been said, what we were wearing 20 years ago, was influenced by 20 years prior....ipso facto, you will see some type of lineage. Of course, the psychology of the times also has an impact on people's desires, wants and spending habits. So, if you look at particularly wealthy periods, you will see higher levels of detail, more expensive materials and more classic looks, and the opposite is true for hard times, brighter, more fun, simpler and perhaps a little more disposable design sensibilities, ie, how long were you really going to be wearing the flared jeans and tie die shirt? There's nothing 'classic' or timeless about that, at all.

Who is your favorite vintage style icon? Why?

Wow! Tough....I am a huge fan of Isaac Mizrahi, I think he has combined talent, business and a strong sense of spotting good opportunities to create an amazing career for himself. His work always looks beautifully 'appointed' yet, he has no arrogance or elitism in his approach to fashion.....I like that, a lot.

eenamaria is available at ebags.com and qvc.com


eenamaria mod inspired handbags

April 24, 2009

Private Tour of Valentina: American Couture and the Cult of Celebrity

by Suzanne Reinhardt Kuhn
valentina-husband.jpg
Mr. and Mrs. (Valentina) George Schlee, mid-1940s
Albumen silver print
Courtesy of the Estate of Valentina Schlee


This first ever retrospective of Valentina: American couture and the Cult of Celebrity opened at the Museum of the City of New York on 14 Feb, 2009 and runs through 17 May, 2009. The exhibit seeks to provide the missing link in the history of American Couture, by showcasing this legendary talent who has thus far been shrouded in mystery.

I was thrilled to attend a private curator-led tour of the exhibit last week. Having never heard of Valentina, my curiosity was definitely piqued. We were able to see designs she created around the same time Coco Chanel was revolutionizing women's fashion, however we rarely hear of this innovative designer and her extravagant lifestyle, nor how she too was revolutionizing how women dressed. Valentina was America's first couture designer, never creating a ready-to-wear line, only couture pieces for friends and those she deemed worthy of her creations. A character for sure, but a talented, creative and charming character!

Born in Kiev in the Ukraine, Valentina spent time in Europe as a dancer. When she arrived in America, Valentina Sanina Schlee, known professionally as Valentina, had a rudimentary knowledge of sewing. She seized the chance to reinvent herself in New York and show her many talents. She believed in timeless fashion, not fad, and her designs remain timeless to this day. Valentina is accredited with creating American Couture, and went on to create wardrobes of the rich and famous including actresses as Greta Garbo, Katherine Hepburn, Merle Oberon, as well as socialites such as the Duchess of Windsor, and Mrs. Randolph Hearst.

She also created the idea of modularity in dressing; add a bolero, and you've got a new look for your old dress. Add an apron or overskirt -- yet another look. One of the most amusing things in the exhibit is an interview clip with Edward R, Murrow, where she transforms her very stylish, elegant, gown into something more suited for dinner with friends. She unbuttons the neckline, tucks it in, pulls it slightly over her shoulders, then splits the overskirt to reveal two long apron strings which she pulls to the back, ties in a bow thus creating a modified bustle. The skirt underneath is a simple black sheath. The bonus is that you get to hear the charming Valentina herself describe what she is doing. The look is so creative and honestly wish I had it myself! To me, this was the mother of investment dressing. Buy a few pieces and be able to switch them up for a different look fits right in with today's lifestyle (and budgets.)

You'll also find a selection of her trademark tricorn and coolie hats, which really finish the looks beautifully. I'm a total sucker for old Hollywood and seeing clothing made for and worn by Katherine Hepburn, Greta Garbo, Lillian Gish, Rosalind Russell - all favorite actresses of mine - gave me great joy. The workmanship that went into these creations was remarkable; I can only dream to one day own my very own Valentina!

Phyllis Magidson, the museum's curator of Costumes and Textiles had the daunting task of choosing through the family's personal collection of clothing and photographs after Valentina's death, as well as acquiring other items for the exhibit. She did a remarkable job of presenting Valentina in all her glory, between the clothing and photographs of Valentina by the most renowned photographers of her day such as Horst, and Cecil Beaton, to the informative exhibit.

There is a book by the same title that coincides with the exhibit written by Kohle Yohannan, foreword by Harold Koda, and published by Rizzoli. It is available through the museum and can also be ordered online.

valentinacollection.jpg
valentinacollectioncu.jpg
croquis1947.jpg
Croquis, 1947
Pencil and gouache on paper
Artist/Designer: Valentina
Costume design for Katharine Cornell as "Cleopatra"
Museum of the City of New York, Gift of Katharine Cornell


greenjersey.jpg
Katharine Cornell
Antigone (1946)
Olive green silk matte jersey, draped self scarf edged with wild mink
Designed by Valentina, fabricated by Karinska
Museum of the City of New York, Gift of Katharine Cornell, 65.100.48


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Dinner Ensemble, late-1940s

Navy silk satin dress, matching bolero
Label: Valentina
Museum of the City of New York, Gift of Irene Worth, 86.63.3abc


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Evening Dress, ca.1949-50Sapphire-blue silk velvet
Label: Valentina
Museum of the City of New York, Gift of Irene Worth, 86.63.2


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Evening Gown, mid-1940s
Scarlet silk jersey one-shouldered gown, matching drape
Designed and made for donor by Valentina


Valentina.jpg
John Lee
Valentina, early 1940s
Albumen silver print
Courtesy of the Estate of Valentina Schlee


Suzanne Reinhardt Kuhn is the editor of Idee Fix and DebutanteClothing.com's newest contributor bringing you the best in vintage style from New York. Look for more articles from Suzanne coming soon!

Photos © C. Bay Milin

April 13, 2009

Vintage Find - It's an Alaia! An A-Whata?

vintagealaia.jpg


This totally important designer. Cher called it. The quintessential body conscious designer put slinky dresses on the fashion map. According to the Vintage Fashion Guild label resource, "Azzedine Alaïa opened his ready-to-wear business in Paris in 1980, after having worked at Mugler, Guy Laroche, and Dior. He is known for his work in knits and Lycra, especially that done in the mid 1980s. His designs were generally made from black or dark solid colors, and his dresses were tight, showing off every curve. Many feature a deeply scooped back. Alaïa still designs, and is based in Paris."

The neckline on this dress is what intrigues me most. It reminds me of the neckline on Roland Mouret's Galaxy dress.With a fit this tight, you better be in tip top shape to sport vintage Alaia. Thank goodness for Spanx!

available on Ebay.com, $640 ends 4/30

April 8, 2009

Vintage Style Muse - WendyB

wendy b in donald brooks couture
WendyB in Donald Brooks Couture

Meet this week's Vintage Style Muse -- Wendy B! Many of you may know her as the amazing jewelry designer with a passion for historic women. Her line is called Wendy Brandes Jewelry. You may also know her from her potty-mouth, smart as a whip blog. Wendy has an enviable sense of style. She mixes vintage in a sophisticated way that matches her creative spirit.






1. Name and City you reside: Wendy Brandes, New York City

2. Favorite vintage piece: I don't have just one favorite, but the Donald Brooks Couture dress that I call the Sex-ay Pilgrim Dress is in my top ten. I got it on eBay for $60.

3. Favorite vintage store, brick and mortar or online: For brick and mortar it is Frock, my friend Evan Ross's store on Orchard Street in NYC. Online, I love Shrimpton Couture, Vintage-a-Peel, and C20 Vintage Fashion.

4. Favorite decade: '60s-'70s

5. Vintage icon: Designer Ossie Clark, not just because I love his clothes, but because he used to strike a good pose himself!

6. Why do you love vintage? Every dress has a good story

wendy b in ossie clark
Wendy B in Ossie Clark

wendyb-ossieclarkalicepolack.jp.jpg
Ossie Clark and designer Alice Pollock
courtesy of Child of the Moon

Want to be a Vintage Style Muse too? Show us your best vintage! Send a picture and tell us about your self to friends at debutanteclothing dot com

March 23, 2009

20th Century Glamour - A Walk Down the Runway in Vintage Couture


decades 1950s pierre cardin ombre dress

Thursday night, I had the great pleasure of attending the Louis Verdad Louver collection preview. As if that weren't enough fashion pleasure, Cameron Silver of Decades Inc. also showed a collection of twenty-four incredible gowns representing some of the best wearable vintage couture. I was so excited about this event that it wasn't until I sat down to edit the video footage I took that I realized I was sitting behind Louis Verdad and Cameron Silver! The only stars in my eyes were the vintage kind.


The crowd was an interesting mix of fashionistas, celebrities such as Rose McGowan dressed by Cameron Silver in a vintage Loris Azzaro, Nicole Richie in vintage Zandra Rhodes and her new line, House of Harlow, Nicky Hilton, Dana Delaney in a green vintage wiggle dress, and Marisa Tomei in a 1958 vintage Christian Dior, with a few drag queens for good measure. The entire night was a museum worthy installation of beautiful fashion in every possible medium: 18-foot photos by August Bradleya, a fashion film by Robertino Fonseca that captured Bradley's photo shoot, Louis Verdad's collection displayed on mannequins, and the piece de resistance, the Decades fashion show.

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The show started with a very somber operetta by two vinyl, corseted evening gown clad singers. Even the cello player was tightly bound in black vinyl. Perhaps this was a way to bridge the gothic themed collection by Louis Verdad and the vintage runway show.  Overall, it was an interesting performance. Then, a parade of vibrant vintage gowns marched down the runway.

The show included stunning gowns from the 1930s to the 1980s. Some of my favorites included a pink 1950s Pierre Cardin ombre ball gown and a 1930s blue paillette mermaid gown that I never would've guessed was that old. The crowd went wild over a red sequined 1960s Norman Norell cocktail dress. The colors ranged from fuschia to sea foam - I imagine Cameron Silver is getting the store ready for spring.

The event was a much needed injection of glamour and high fashion in a town that is best known for it's Hollywood starlets and very casual dress. I was thrilled to see so many attendees in vintage too.  I was no longer self conscious of my bright pink and red dress amongst the sea of black - vintage should stand out and be noticed. Isn't this part of why we wear it?

I am pleased to show you the latest of what I hope will be a series of vintage themed videos produced by DebutanteClothing.com. I hope my little Flip camera does the show justice. Enjoy!


Decades Downtown LA Fashion Week Show from Sandra Mendoza-Daly on Vimeo.

Photos: LookBookLA.com / Felix Salzman

March 20, 2009

Glamorous Goth & Vintage Influence at Louis Verdad

louis verdad louver fashion preview

Last night, I attended the premier Downtown LA Fashion Week show titled An Evening of 20th Century Glamour which benefited the Los Angeles Museum of Contemporary Art. Along with an amazing array of vintage gowns from vintage clothing darling Cameron Silver's, Decades (more on this tomorrow), Louis Verdad showed his newest collection titled Louver. If anyone has ever questioned LA's fashion scene, last night's show would have made their jaws drop.

The Decades-Verdad teaming for the event was apropos as there was much vintage influence in Verdad's collection. A 1920s style, ebony crocheted gown accessorized with patent leather opera gloves, punctuated with a crystal and spiked studs encrusted bracelet mingled with a 1960s looking wool cape and cap ensemble. The entire collection was a tug of war of between goth/fetish chic and vintage glamour. Normally, these aesthetics don't seem like they go together, but the juxtaposition of patent leather, delicate chiffon, crocheting, and studs was stunning.

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The collection really resonated with me because mixing and matching design elements is what real style is all about. Those of us that wear vintage know this. Being a fan of mixing the unexpected, I felt the collection really reflected how LA people dress - we wear old and new, edge with femininity, high and low.

Louis Verdad has always had a feminine edge to his designs and is obviously influenced by great design from the past. He seems to feel comfortable in the world of frills, but just as relaxed in leather. He's the perfect designer for any rock and roll rooted subculture girl.  I feel lucky to have such a great designer who goes beyond simply wearable, mainstream fashion call Southern California home.

If you want to seem more of the collection, go to my Flickr feed. Stay tuned for the Decades vintage clothing fashion show, in video!

Photos: ©Sandra Mendoza-Daly, DebutanteClothing.com

March 18, 2009

LA Fashion Week Meets Vintage Clothing Runway


lafw.jpg
While LA Fashion Week may have lost what little clout it had due to lack of interest from IMG and lack of money from, well everyone in California right now, the spirit of creativity and beautiful design has not been completely lost.  I am thrilled to be attending the Downtown Los Angeles Fashion Week (DLAFW)
show entitled 'Evening of 20th Century Glamour' on March 19th.

The event will be hosted by actress Rachel Griffiths and feature one of vintage fashion's authorities, Cameron Silver's collection of 20th century fashions to be worn by the runway women of LA Models and special celebrity guests. Fashion designer Louis Verdad's new collection Louver, shot by photographer August Bradley, and the video installation about the designer by film director Robertino Fonseca, will also be presented. I own a few Louis Verdad pieces, both very vintage inspired, but for an even like this, I think I really should opt for vintage.

I am thinking of wearing a Jacques Heim couture dress, but aside from its rhinestone embellishments, I think it might be a little understated. Or I could wear an adorable velvet mini dress from the 1960s - it has the cutestet satin bow and has rhinestone trim on the neckline. This can be worn with really cute modern booties. Pictures to follow.

If you are in the LA area and are interested in attending this event, it is actually open to the public. See more information at www.downtownlafashionweek.com.

March 11, 2009

Going, going, gone... Paris vintage clothing auction report

This is a special guest blog post from vintage clothing auction correspondent, Jeanne Suica...

Paris has been buzzing with the results of two major Yves Saint Laurent auctions that were held a couple weeks ago. The collection of Pierre Berge and Yves Saint Laurent which was held at Christie's broke a few major records in the antiques and art market. Did anyone say financial crisis? Not here! A pair of candelabra brought 253,000 euros and a chair fetched a sum of 21.9 million euros. Sadly, I couldn't even get close to the preview, there was a two hour wait to even get a peek of the fabulous collection.

I had better luck at the clothing and couture auction which was held a few days later at Hotel Duorot. The collection of 943 lots included a handful of haute couture pieces, many Rive Gauche items, accessories and a good amount of jewelry from 1962-2002.

vintage yves saint laurent haute couture
Lot 564 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture N 46547 Automne Hiver 1979-1980
Collection Hommage à Pablo Picasso

vintage yves saint laurent haute couture

Lot 46 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture N 1757 circa 1963 (ivory and black)



Continue reading "Going, going, gone... Paris vintage clothing auction report"

February 24, 2009

Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent Auctions in Paris

ysl art collection christies

Some of you may remember the American show "Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous" hosted by Robin Leach. Each week Mr. Leach would lead viewers through the homes and destination spots of the rich and famous providing a sneak peek into a world that most of us would never be privileged enough to see in real life.

Growing up it was one of my favorite shows along with dreaming about attending couture shows of Yves Saint Laurent, one of my favorite designers. Yves Saint Laurent passed away last year leaving his business partner Monsieur Pierre Bergé with a phenomenal collection of art, antiques and collectables that they had amassed together.

Now if you want a peek into the world of the rich and famous, all you need is a metro ticket or two...

Acclaimed as one of the most important private collections formed in the past century, this collection will be auctioned off over the course of two days, including 233 lots of furniture, paintings, drawings, sculpture and jewelry from Renaissance, Old Masters, Art Deco and Ming Dynasty.

One of my favorite items is lot 246: a serpent vase by Jean Dunand with an auction estimate of 25,000-30,000 euros. (Note to self: call my credit card company and ask them to increase my spending limit).

Definitely worth the trip and better than a museum in some cases. And the best part is that it's free to attend and a great learning experience for anyone interested in antiques, art or fine collectables.

A fully illustrated catalogue including a comprehensive downloadable brochure can be found at www.christies.com.

The Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé Collection
Christie's in Association with Pierre Bergé Associés

Grand Palais des Champs-Elysées
Avenue Winston-Churchill, 8th
M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Preview Dates February 21-23
Sale Dates February 23-25

For those of you who like fashion, the memory of Yves Saint Laurent continues with what most of us know him best for: his timeless and elegant creations. If you need to update your wardrobe, are a collector, or just want to browse, you should attend the Yves Saint Laurent Couture preview or auction.

It's one of the few clothing auctions in Paris this season at Drouot Richelieu, the destination place for antique dealers and collectors in Paris. This auction is advertised as a couture auction and one of the few that I've seen dedicated to one designer, at least in title. I imagine that there will also be ready to wear items, both gently worn contemporary and vintage, along with a good amount of accessories and jewelry as well. To date, the catalogue is not on line so may also include other designers.

An online catalog is usually available at www.auction.fr two weeks before the auction and a print catalog may also be available for purchase at the preview. Not as organized as Christies in particular for their on line catalogs (generally only select items are photographed and the quality of the photographs and descriptions leave much to be desired) this auction may be worth checking out if nothing else but to be able to try on some of YSL's finest creations.

Couture Yves Saint Laurent
Drouot Richelieu
9 Rue Drouot, 9th
M° Richelieu Drouot

Preview dates February 24 and 25
Sale dates February 26 and 27


And for those of you who may not be in Paris in late February or may not have a huge amount to spend but are looking for that special Yves Saint Laurent piece, you'll find Yves Saint Laurent pieces on www.ebay.com, www.ebay.co.uk and www.ebay.fr

Happy Bidding!

Contributed by Jeanne Suica
permission to repost from Secrets of Paris

January 27, 2009

News Flash! Mad Men Costume Designer To Launch a Line

mad men cast

Man! I need to publish this now because I read about this this morning and everyone is already buzzing.

Glamour.com did an interview with Mad Men costume designer and Costume Designers Guild Award nominee, Janie Bryant. If you think Bryant just finds some random vintage clothing at the thrift and calls it costuming, you are very mistaken.  When asked by Tracey Lomrantz of Slaves to Fashion, a really great blog by the way, if there were any plans for her own line, Janie replied,

"I'm working on some things right now...I hate to be so mysterious but I can't really say! It would have my name attached to it though."

Apparently, the former fashion designer, actually makes many of the costumes for the principal actors. I always wondered if she replicated vintage clothing with modern fabrics in colors and slight design modifications that looked better on TV. I mean, I've never seen a late '50s/early '60s dress like Joan Holloway's!

christina hendricks mad men
I cannot wait to see what Janie Bryant designs. Designers such as Michael Kors have already been bitten by the vintage, Mad Men style bug, so Janie Bryant should take more than credit for bringing vintage style to modern fashion. She should bask in the glory of recreated fitted wiggle dresses, full skirts, and shark skin, slim suits.

Photos: AMC

January 21, 2009

Obama. Inspired.


Yesterday was like Christmas. The country was giddy with excitement, which then turned into raw emotion for some, including me.

We are not only witnessing history in the making, we are living and breathing hope - not the wild eyed, rainbows and sunshine hope that right winged mocked us with. We are now entering an era where a shift of mindset is taking place.

We are being forced to act frugally and I am hoping that this will stir some selflessness. I can hope!

In the meantime, I am glad to see such a handsome couple in office.

The stunning vintage inspired Isabel Toledo ensemble that the First Lady wore will be available at Barneys in March.

January 20, 2009

Interview with Vintage & Antique Jewelry Site PastEra.com

pastera.jpg I came across PastEra.com through NotCouture.com. I immediately loved the name and look of the site. It exuded quality in its display of fine, collectible jewelry without even having seen the pieces. And when I did see the collection of exquisite jewelry, I knew I had to contact the mavens behind the jewels.


PastEra.com is known for its exceptional jewelry ranging from the 17th through 20th centuries. It is comprised of a team of collectors, historians, gemologists, curators, and jewelry experts. You can rest assured that what you purchase from them is top notch finery. I got a chance to chat with the dame of divine jewelry, Marion Glober. Check out what she had to share...

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Past Era's collection spans many important historical periods. Which one seems to be the most collectible?

In my over 40 years of experience in the antique jewelry business I would have to say that nothing antique ever really goes out of style. For example I've noticed that various historical periods appear to be more collectible at one time or another, depending on current preferences and taste and somewhat dictated by fashion styles. On the other hand, some people collect a certain look, some a certain time period and others a particular kind of genre. Fine early memorial pieces known as memento mori for example. Other collectors look for pieces made of a particular material such as Berlin Ironwork. It so depends on the whims of collectors.

Many people confuse Art Deco and Art Nouveau. Can you tell us the difference?

The focus of the Art Nouveau was romanticism and the skills of the artisan. Beautiful metalwork was revered and the use of delicate enamels and semi-precious stones in soft, pale colors were preferred. Art Nouveau precedes the Art Deco. Art Nouveau comes at the end of the Victorian era right around the turn of the century. Flowing, asymmetrical and sensual designs were popular incorporating women's heads, designs from the natural world such as floral motifs and lots of insects and mythical creatures. For example see the work of René Lalique, the renowned French Art Nouveau artisan and jewelry maker. WW1 put an end to the of the Art Nouveau period.

Art Deco follows immediately after the end of WW1 when machinery and the industrial world really takes off. The designs are much more geometric and industrial looking than the Art Nouveau and incorporate the use of platinum and diamonds and bold designs with lots of vibrant colored stones. The jewelry of the Art Deco period is bold and beautiful and comes to an end at the start of WW2.

What advice would you give someone starting in collecting vintage and antique jewelry?

The most important first step is to shop with a reputable antique jeweler that you know and trust and buy the best you can afford and something you love. Build a collection of the finest (within your budget) of a certain period or design or material or style and slowly refine your collection as time goes by. Don't waste money buying items that are not true to a period and/or not in perfect original condition. Also, buy things that you would love wearing and then you will have continued enjoyment from your collection.

What is the rarest piece you have offered on PastEra.com?

We have had quite a few extraordinary pieces through the years. Including a rare Lasque diamond ring with a hand painted miniature of Shakespeare under the diamond, beautiful lacy Berlin ironwork pieces, early 17th century memorial rings, a wonderful Carlo Giuliano necklace, some items made by René Lalique and a fine 19th century cameo pin/pendant in its original fitted box and signed by Henri Vever. As an example we currently have a very beautiful Edwardian cluster ring set with a gorgeous untreated, natural Burmese ruby & diamonds.

pasteranecklace.jpg

I noticed you include everything after the Art Deco period in the "Retro" category. Why is this?

Retro refers to 1940s and early 1950s wartime and post-war 'cocktail' jewelry when lifestyles changed so dramatically. Also, referred to as the Art Moderne period. Lots of
standing around at cocktail parties and much less formal dinner entertaining. The jewelry is fun, very bold using lots of rose gold and bold colored stones. There was a shortage of platinum after the war and so very little was used during the Retro period. We also have an Estate section for things 1950s and later on PastEra.com

Some of your pieces look so modern. Do you specifically look for jewelry that can be incorporated into a modern wardrobe?

Everything I buy for Past Era Antique Jewelry can be worn with today's fashions. We love helping customers find new and fun ways to incorporate their antique jewelry into their contemporary wardrobes for fresh look.

I always fantasize about finding some rare treasure in the thrift store. Does this happen?

Absolutely! I suspect lots of people share your fantasy. However, realistically, it takes a very trained eye to spot a rare treasure. It is very important to be able to distinguish between real and fake, old and reproduction, quality and current condition. It takes many years of handling and buying this beautiful jewelry to become skilled at spotting that rare treasure. That is why it is critical, when building a collection, to be able to depend on a reliable and expert dealer who has many, many years of experience. Our history in the antique jewelry business is something that we are very proud of at Past Era Antique Jewelry and that is why we know people will love finding the gorgeous antique jewelry available at PastEra.com


Continue reading "Interview with Vintage & Antique Jewelry Site PastEra.com"

January 8, 2009

Silence is Golden - Lagerfeld's Silent Coco Chanel Movie

Karl Lagerfeld has paid homage to Gabrielle Coco Chanel in this short silent film. Although it isn't truly silent - you'll hear sound effects - the film is beautifully made. I'm hoping Lagerfeld will create sequels because this seems to be incomplete. I would love to see the rest of Chanel's life captured in modern black and white.

January 6, 2009

Print Master Alfred Shaheen dies at 86

alfredshaheen.jpg

The LA Times this weekend announced that the master of Hawaiian and Polynesian prints, Alfred Shaheen, has passed on December 22, at the age of 86 due to complications of Diabetes.

Every vintage picker and buyer knows the feeling of scoring a vintage Shaheen. One of the most coveted labels in vintage clothing, and especially in Hawaiiana, Shaheen revolutionized print manufacturing when he struck out on his own with four seamstresses and equipment he made himself.

Shaheen patterns were innovative. He traveled and sent designers to exotic locations to find the best textiles and patterns in the world. He was determined to create beautiful garments, often traced with gold details, that were unlike anything ever seen before.

"I wanted a certain look that was different from everyone else's," Shaheen said in an interview for Hope's book. "I would not do hash prints or chop suey prints. I avoided bright or garish colors."

Alfred Shaheen was a 20th century fashion icon who has forever changed our notions and appreciation of Asian and Hawaiiana fashion. You made our world colorful and exotic Mr. Shaheen. Rest in Peace.

December 12, 2008

Shoulda, Woulda, Coulda Vintage Dior

I don't know what's gotten into me. The older I get, the longer I have been in the vintage game, the more gun shy, or maybe even apathetic I have become when it comes to bidding on Ebay. Maybe it's the economy - maybe I am feeling a twinge of guilt for wanting to buy designer luxury items that I don't necessarily need, I just want.

cathay.jpgI have had vintage Dior travel bag on my Ebay watch list for months. I suddenly became obsessed with finding a Dior logo travel bag, but not a duffel style. I want a real, honest to goodness travel bag pre-1980. I have this style fantasy of the perfect travel outfit. It consists of comfortable casual pants or lightweight slack style denim, funky vintage oxfords, a cashmere cardi in a great print, like leopard, a tissue thin 3/4 length sleeve top, and a sophisticated designer carry on bag.

I have had two failed attempts on Ebay. The first, I was totally outbid at $300 - I know it's Dior, but I still want it reasonably priced.

My last attempt, and the reason I feel like I am losing my touch or hunger, was for a perfect brown and white canvas Dior carry on. It was probably from the early '70s. I won! But, I didn't meet the reserve. I hate reserves. Unless they are mine.

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I emailed the seller to find out what the reserve was. It was about $50 dollars more than I wanted to spend. Apparently, she emailed me back and told me she would let it go for my asking price. But I never saw the response, Does anyone else hate Ebay's notification system?

The seller relisted so I bid. This time, it sold for $100 more than what she was willing to sell it to me for. Sigh. Am I being too cheap? Or do I not care enough?

So now of course the regret has set in. Someone please slap me the next time I don't just indulge and buy myself something nice.

November 23, 2008

Independent Fashion Bloggers - Links à la Mode : November 23

This week we've got finding the perfect coat on Retro Chick and The Bare Skinny. A Few Goody Gumdrops knocked me out my chair with the most amazing diamond necklace I've ever seen. Hello, Lover, Hello Pantone... finally they are getting into shoes. 39thandbroadway explains the mystery that is behind sizes, it's not your vanity. Debutante Clothing shows us safety pin couture, and The Coveted gives us all the reasons we need not to fake it.

  • 39thandbroadway - The truth behind your size label and your vanity!
  • A Few Goody GumDrops - A Few Goody Gumdrops is drooling over the all diamond necklace from Mauboussin!
  • Being High Maintenance, not Bitchy - How to capture classic 3.1 Phillip Lim style for less
  • Capitola Girl Jewelry Blog - The Steampunk-stylings of two indie jewelry artists who take wire-wrapped rings to another dimension...
  • Debutante Clothing - Debutante Clothing finds vintage inspiration from couture safety pins
  • Diary of a Style Addict - is coveting Rihanna's look on her new "Rehab" video
  • Dogmom's Dish - Tokidoki's Simone Legno In San Francisco
  • dreamecho - Weapon of Choice: Cultural Commentary, Trivialization and Personal Responsibility in Fashion
  • fashion fille - A realization of the blogosphere's current sequin obsession.
  • fashion in my eyes - In Maglia E Meglio,Christian Louboutin for Rodarte
  • Fashion Pulse Daily - Fashion Pulse can't wait to get its hands on the Hayden-Harnett handbag collection for Target in December; get a sneak peak now!
  • Flights of Fab Fashion Fancy - Flights of Fab Fashion Fancy is loving these young, easy, chic looks from Sandro-a trendy-chic Parisian brand!
  • Hello, Lover... Shoe Daydreams - A special limited-edition collaboration between Pantone, the definitive guide to color and SeaVees, the purveyors of California casual
  • In Life and In Fashion - Why I am inspired by the woman who invented the wrap dress.
  • Independent Fashion Bloggers - Geek Chic: Best Tech for Fashion Bloggers
  • Iole in fashion - Sex and The city...again!
  • Little Black Book - Fashion Palette: a must for aspiring designers and persons hoping to make it in the fashion industry.
  • Mademoiselle Robot - With Christmas approaching, it is useful to know how to wear sequins without looking like a Christmas tree!
  • Or False Glitter - - Cherry Lip Lolita: youthful yet provocative beauty
  • PONY RYDER - A story behind Laurel S. sign up with NY model management.
  • Retro Chick - Baby it's cold outside: A Guide to buying your perfect Winter Coat.
  • Shopping and Info - Shopping and Info found some great clutches that look like Angelina Jolie's from the Changeling Private Screening in London
  • Some Like It Fashion - Going for Gold: The metallic look has evolved and given birth to a new trend. Some Like It Fashion discusses the merits of metal within clothing.
  • Style Discovery - "Transformation: Fremantle High Street Collective 2008″. Local fashion delight brought to you by Style Discovery from Perth, Western Australia.
  • Style Symmetry - Eyeliah calls cream and yellow a trend to watch!
  • The Bare Skinny - Hitting the Trenches to Find the Perfect Coat
  • THE COVETED - Faking Confessionals...and reasons why not to do it....
  • The Ongoing Project - Developing your personal style, part 3
  • The Subadult Years - A personal look at the effectiveness and limitations of the eco-friendly fashion trend in Toronto.
  • Your Style Star - 5 Simple Tips For Surviving Holiday Parties


November 21, 2008

Past & Present - vintage and contemporary jewelry at Yoox.com

yoox costume jewelryYoox.com has done it again. This time they have curated a gorgeous collection of some of the finest vintage and contemporary jewelry. The Italy based online retailer is showcasing vintage costume jewelry from some of the most collectible designer names.

The collection, titled Past & Present features vintage pieces from Coppola e Toppo, Trifari, Monet, Miriam Haskell, Chanel, Kenneth Jay Lane, and Correani. Many of the pieces come from precious private collections like that of the jewelry historian Deanna Farneti Cera.

The selection is presented through six themes, all of which illustrate the most significant trends of next season: Black, Cuffs & Bracelets, Graphic Themes, Chains, Pearls, and Glamorous Ornaments.

"Jewelry lifts our spirits and transforms the clothes we wear. Once dismissed as a poor imitation of fine jewelry, costume jewelry came into its own in the 20th century, with its own glamour and its own design tradition-adventurous, stylish, bigger, bolder."  Holly Brubach

Be sure to check out Natalia Brilli's interview. She discusses her inspiration for her leather based jewelry line and how she uses vintage haute couture techniques to create her exquisite collection.

Deanna Farneti Cera
, costume jewelry historian and author of many collecting books, not only contributed some of her own private collection, but she also gives some insight into the world of collectible costume jewelry.

She claims there are two types of people who purchase costume jewelry. One buys without much thought but with the purpose of purchasing something elegant that matches an outfit or their appearance. The other is the type that puts thought into each purchase - the collector. This buyer selects pieces based on themes, periods or styles.

I think I am more of a theme shopper. I have tons of buckle bracelets and I can't seem to stop. It's funny how you realize in hindsight that you have amassed a collection without knowing it when you continue to buy what tickles your fancy.

Check out the Past & Present article where you can find the videos and a ton of great historical information.

Sale ends January 31, 2009.

November 19, 2008

Vintage Inspired Trend - Couture Safety Pins

vintage ingber safety pin purse

I have been coveting this 1950s Ingber safety pin bag for almost a year now. I love the quirky safety pin handle. Punk rock meets 5th Ave. While this bag is still chic, the audacious pin gives it a sense of humor. Really, the only thing holding me back is the price. And I think many others feel the same way because it's been sitting there forever! Secretly, I know I'll be devastated if anyone else buys it. So imagine my glee when I saw this safety pin bag by Bodhi. I declared, "It's my safety pin bag!"

bodhi safety pin clutch

Their "Safety Clutch" features a leather and fur body, looks like pony hair, topped by an exaggerated safety pin handle. The Bodhi silhouette is a bit more modern, but I can't help but love its original inspiration more.

Marc Jacobs also featured giant gold tone safety pins as fasteners for wide leather belts at his spring show.

marc jacobs spring belt Photo: Greg Kessler


My punk rock friends may gag at the idea of couture safety pins, but there is something so tongue in cheek about accenting chic design with shiny, giant, household objects.

October 30, 2008

Vintage Roadshow - Frank Usher, vintage hair, and booties

vintageroadshow.jpgThe Vintage Roadshow is back! And we're having a great time sharing vintage goodies. Check it out...

Debutante Clothing scours the web for booties with vintage appeal.

Freudian Slips Vintage showcases vintage Frank Usher dresses.

iKonic Vintage finds how-to videos on perfecting that vintage hairstyle.

Love blogging about vintage? Join the Vintage Roadshow!

October 22, 2008

Dame Rosamond Bernier Brings Her Vintage Closet to Yoox.com

rosamondbernierdior.jpgRosamond Bernier, the glamorous lecturer at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, has led a life of art, high culture and equally high fashion. Dame Bernier will be letting the world into her closet as she unloads some of her envious wardrobe on Yoox.com today.

The 92 year old socialite and lecturer hobnobbed with the likes of artists such as Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, Joan Miró and Georges Braque. One can only imagine the caliber of her dinner parties.

Yoox.com has become a major resource in collectible vintage couture so it makes perfect sense that Yoox.com founder, Federico Marchetti, would encourage Mrs. Bernier to grace the site with her legendary wardrobe. One of the most talked about pieces in the sale is a haute couture 1959 Dior water-color dress with matching purse. This was the time when the late Yves Saint Laurent designed for the house of Dior. Yoox.com is no stranger to the wonder of vintage Dior as evidenced by their recent vintage Dior collection.

As an added bonus, Rosamond Bernier will comment on each featured item from her wardrobe, sharing her recollections of how and when she acquired it and the noteworthy occasions on which she wore it. Provenance and a good story is always a plus when purchasing vintage!

The sale will also feature a Zandra Rhodes dress from the early 1970's, a Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel red wool bouclé suit from the early 1980's and a Kenneth Jay Lane leaf necklace, circa 1970.

The sale starts this Thursday October 23 at around 9 a.m., EST at Yoox.com.

October 7, 2008

Thanks to Bloggers, Met's Costume Institute Database Goes Online

metdior.jpgIf you've ever fantasized about traipsing through the massive archives of Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute, too nervous to touch but elated to be in the presence of such artistry, then you are in luck.

The Costume Institute has just expanded it's database and has made it available online. Yes, to us commoners. The 31,000 piece collection is almost completely available at the Met's website under Collections.

Keeping their white gloved finger on the pulse of the web, the curators realized how wide their audience was after the "blog.mode: addressing fashion" exhibit back in December 2007. "We have grown so much and would like to house everything properly, and in conjunction with that, we started to document things that hadn't been reviewed since they first came in in the Forties. Once we got the information together, we thought it would be ideal if the general public could log in and, for instance, find all of our Christian Diors," said Harold Koda, curator in charge for the Costume Institute.

I love that the mecca of all vintage and antique costume archives is willing to learn and grow with the blogosphere. It just shows how powerful a medium this can be. Koda said that, in the same vein as "blog.mode," the Costume Institute also hopes to gather more information on pieces in its collection, as well as corrections, where appropriate.

And apparently, some corrections do need to be made. While transferring information to their new database, some very early Vionnets were found that had been cataloged incorrectly since the '60s because the archivists had missed the label.

::raising hand:: Can I have that job?

metsouper.jpg

metcourtdress.jpg

source: WWD.com

August 25, 2008

Vintage Find - Vintage Art Nouveau & Deco at Chanel & Anna Sui

Chanel and Anna Sui shamelessly paid homage to the intricate era of Art Noveau and Deco with their RTW accessories for fall. It's kind of refreshing to see another decade being used as reference besides the usual suspects of the '50s and '60s. And let's face it, most designers are influenced by the past. But are these too much of a literal interpretation? What do you think?

chanel chain mail purse fall 2008 vintage chain mail purse
Chanel mesh purse fall 2008 vintage long mesh purse

This one is a blatant copy, unless it is indeed the same bag used as runway accoutrement.

anna sui vintage beaded purse fall 2008 vintage beaded purse

all bags on left: Chanel, Chanel, Anna Sui
all bags on right: 1930s mesh purse, available at Jewels USA $95
1920s long chain mail purse, available at Bobby Deenes Vintage, $225
antique beaded purse, not available but an exact match, at Dorthea's Closet, $225


July 15, 2008

Auction Houses Go To War Over YSL

yslnews.jpg

The fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent amassed an art collection that is renowned as one of the most fabulous in private hands. It includes works by Old Masters and contemporary greats, among them Picasso, Mondrian, Warhol, Matisse and Goya, to name just a few.

Now, following his death last month aged 71, Saint Laurent's business partner, former companion and heir, Pierre Bergé - with whom he built the collection - is reported to be considering a massive international sale.



Read the rest...

source: http://www.artbistro.com/

July 7, 2008

Vintage Find - YSL Fringe Necklace

When you think of the late Yves Saint Laurent, certain images come to mind: regular use of black models, le smoking, safari. But rarely do we think of the beautiful accoutrements that accessorized these YSL icons. Although the necklace is licensed, I feel it clearly reflects the mind and interests of Yves Saint Laurent's collections of the 1970s - bold and exotic.

vintage ysl necklace


available at Blonde Vintage

June 25, 2008

Beautiful Skin via Drugstore.com

It's summer. I've given up on bikini body but my skin is in tank top and minimal make up condition. Unlike my good friend Stevie at LA-Story.com, the queen of beauty products, my beauty arsenal consists of mostly drugstore finds with a few MAC and Benefit products. Some of the best products are ones that don't cost you the equivalent of a tank of gas. Check out my tried and true favorites from drugstore.com!

Zim's Crack Creme, Liquid Herbal Formula
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I had extremely dry cracked skin. Not the kind that even Gold Bond could cure. i found Zim's line of Crack Creme products very good. They really take care of cracks and flakiness.


Dickinson's Cleansing Astringent Towelettes

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These little towelettes were a blessing when my husband and I traveled to Italy. In the summer. Let's just say that it's a good thing the place is beautiful because the humidity and heat, anywhere else, would've put a damper on the fun. When ever you feel a little sticky or icky, pull one of these out and wipe. You feel fresh and ready to go instantly.

Olay Total Effects Moisturizing Vitamin Complex
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One of the best parts of being a writer is that I get to try out products I would never be able to afford. Yet, when it comes to moisturizers, I always come back to my tried and true -- Oil of Olay. It just works. My skin looks taut, moist and nearly pore free. I have combination skin and I have never had a problem with oiliness with Total Effects.

Burt's Beeswax Lip Balm
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Remember when all we had was Chapstick? Burt's Beeswax Lip Balm is only slightly more expensive but a thousand times better. It actually moisturizes not just covers up the problem. The minty smell and sensation soothes as it smoothes. For a very subtle day time look, I use this with a bit of lipliner.

Nature's Cure Body Acne Treatment Spray
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it wasn't long ago that I would never dream of wearing a halter top or a tank with my hair in a pony tail during summer months. I was so embarrassed of the acne on my back, yet my face was perfectly clear. The irony! I used Nature's Cure for about a month and I rarely break out now. And you don't have to get someone else to spray your back because it sprays at any angle.


June 3, 2008

Yoox.com Launches Vintage Dior collection

vintage diorToday, Yoox.com launches its newest vintage installation. Yoox traces the history of the maison Christian Dior with a selection of Vintage clothing and accessories. Through July, you'll get to feast your eyes on a carefully selected collection, curated but none other than Holly Brubach, a woman that I thank my writing instructor Sally de Lourenco for introducing me to her work.

Holly Brubach is a talented writer who has the keen ability to write prose about couture but in such a sassy and entertaining manner that non New Yorker socialites like me can appreciate. She curated the last vintage sale which featured vintage Chanel pieces, which incidentally flew off the virtual shelf.

"The limited time YOOX.COM Christian Dior Vintage Sale will feature a selection of hard-to-find signature styles and classic everyday treasures. With the expertise of Holly Brubach, renowned fashion critic and creative consultant for YOOX.COM, items were collected from a variety of sources such as estate sales, private collections and auctions from prestigious houses like Christie's New York. Pieces that were once hidden in one corner of the world, will now be available to anyone with internet access."

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May 7, 2008

Costume Institute Gala Vintage Style

You know you are somebody in the fashion world if you receive an invitation the Costume Institute's annual gala. The theme this year was Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy. While some fashions were blatantly superhero inspired (Wonder Woman wore gold cuffs), many of the guests went for pretty and fantastical.

I was very pleased to see some vintage amongst the sea of couture and high end designers. But I have to admit, some of the vintage pieces weren't as inspiring as some of the new designs, and that was disappointing. Of the many ways to infuse fantasy and a touch of costume to your outfit, you would think vintage would be the way to go. Wearing vintage in and of itself, to an even like this requires more than just a vintage dress - here's you chance to pull out the most outrageous and beautiful pieces known to fashion history.

I felt these fell a little short. But I'll let you decide.

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Photo: Sherly Rabbani and Josephine Solimene

Images:
Michelle Trachtenberg, in a vintage skirt and top with Kwiat diamonds and a Cesare Paciotti clutch.

Kate Bosworth, in vintage Chanel Haute Couture

Caroline Trentini, in vintage Thierry Mugler and Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry.

Anna Sui, in vintage Zandra Rhodes and boots of her own design.

And some notable non-vintage looks:

Sarah Brown
Maggie Gyllenhaal
Dita Von Teese

Check out the rest of the images, all 164 of them!, at Style.com


Shirmpton Couture and Style It also have some images and commentary on the big event.

April 22, 2008

A Marimekko Mystery - Earrings ??

By now, everyone who loves the bold, graphic prints of Marimekko has heard of the amazing collection at H&M.

I also wanted to share with you the Marimekko concept store because colorful shapes and patterns shouldn't just be worn on your body! They carry a slew of punchy patterned lifestyle products from linens to art work.
Marimekko art
But I am totally stumped on this pair of earrings I acquired. They are marked marimekko® DESIGN BY AURIFEX.

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Are they vintage? They must be licensed and not truly Marimekko. I can't seem to find any information on them. Marimekko experts - help!

April 9, 2008

Varvatos has moved in to CBGB

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Back in November, I blogged about the announcement that John Varvatos would be using the closed down CBGB location as his newest boutique. Well, he has moved in, and brought all of his devil's music accoutrements with him!

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The store front was given to Varvatos completely empty, but the graffitied walls plastered with stickers and posters and the theatrical lighting on ceiling remain. Varvatos wanted to leave the history, the memories and the artifacts proving that rock and roll once lived in his new home. "Walking around the Varvatos space at 315 Bowery just confirmed for me that energy doesn't disappear, it only gets transformed, you can feel it - all over the place!" said Arturo Vega, the Ramones Creative Director, who has lived around the corner from the club since 1973.

Alongside his exquisite clothing-styles that even good old punk rock boys wouldn't turn their nose up at-are vintage leather jackets, jeans and rock T-shirts carefully picked by What Comes Around Goes Around.

Varvatos says, "As CBGB's was a unique arena for the music scene, this store will be the same for fashion and rock & roll. They have always been intertwined and here they will live together!"

Photos: Business Wire

March 30, 2008

Vintage Find - 60s Geoffrey Beene

Good vintage transcends time. It isn't defined by one decade and is completely relevant to modern fashion. As is the case with this 1960s Geoffrey Beene shift. The hey day of Geoffrey Beene was the 1960s. But if you look at this dress, can you tell it's from the 1960s? It looks fresh and new and now.

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dress available at eBay

March 10, 2008

LA Fashion Week - Whitley Kros does 70s and 80s style

I usually don't comment on fashion shows that I don't attend, because, well, that just makes no sense. But I was moved to comment on the Whitley Kros show because it seems to be the only show that had any value at LA Fashion Week.

Fashion Week Daily's review
describes Marissa Ribisi and Sophia Coloma's collection as

embracing '70s and '80s style, from Working Girl hair to jumpsuits. Tweed and plaid fabrics mixed with faint animal prints and a color palette of red, salmon, burnt orange, black, and white, seen in oversized slouchy knits, blazers, and cigarette pants

Sounds very comfy and I'm all over the cigarette pants and blazers this season. Considering my petite height, I'd probably do a shrunken blazer over a slouchy one though.

But what caught my fashion-starry-eyed attention was the fact that André Leon Talley was in the audience. Seriously. At LA Fashion Week. I was stunned. Maybe it was the celebrity allure; Bijou Phillips, Juliette Lewis, Marissa's twin brother Giovanni Ribisi and her husband Beck were all in attendance.

This sounds like a show to catch. Note to self: get a press pass next season!

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March 7, 2008

I (Anatomically Correct) Heart Paraphernalia

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Along with art prints on dresses, I love bold, iconic jewelry. Paraphernalia makes the most fantastic plastic pendants using vintage images and creates them into wearable art. Hearts are cute, but this one is arresting. Be sure to check out their bow and portraits of famous folks.





February 27, 2008

Norma Kamali Designs for Walmart

Finally! A reason to shop at Walmart. The last time I went to a Walmart, I was scared off by a man who, in the middle of the pot and pans aisle, screamed "Don't be fucking disrespecting me. That why I don't like going anywhere with you."

Kamali.jpgSo the only way I would step foot in a Walmart would be for such an amazing event like Norma Kamali. According to WWD, Kamali will create a collection of women's and children's wear, shoes, accessories, and home decor!

"My life dream has been to promote self-esteem for women and wellness for the entire family," Kamali said. "Now I have the opportunity with Wal-Mart to create products that combine my design experiences with great value and innovative ideas to fulfill this dream. Through the Wal-Mart stores and Web site I can reach more people and affect more lives than in any other venue," said Norma Kamali.

I am especially looking forward to the footwear, especially after being obliterated in the bidding war for a pair of vintage 80s Norma Kamali flats.

photo from WWD.com

February 20, 2008

Is Your Chanel Bag a Fake?

The most coveted bag for the past two years has undoubtedly been the Chanel 2.55. Mademoiselle Chanel created this iconic bag in 1955, hence the name 2.55.

it seems like eBay is the premiere spot for vintage Chanel purses, but how do you spot the real deal from the fakes? Do your homework! There's nothing worse than being spotted sporting a fake, especially when you paid top dollar.

1. Check the serial number
The serial number will have seven numbers if it was made in the 80s and 8 numbers if it was made in the 90s. In older handbags and accessories there is a white sticker with gold circle CCs all over it. The black 7-digit serial number is black and is in the middle of the sticker. Newer bags have a plastic shield to protect the serial number. There is no plastic covering over this sticker in an older bag.

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2. The logo
The interlocking CC logo can be gold, silver, stitched or other material. The top portion of the right C must overlap the top portion of the left C. The bottom portion