Debutante Clothing :: The Deblog :: A vintage clothing and fashion blog for unconventional style where vintage, street and runway meet.

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But if living vicariously through gazing at beautiful frocks isn't enough, the exhibition also offers a sample of the dizzying but glamorous life of a debutante by offering etiquette, dance and curtsey classes. God forbid you fall on your ass in front of the Queen.

Christian Dior dresses the lucky girl (left) and her lovely mother (right) too. And the former debutante, Margaret Chilton, is reunited with her Christian Dior evening gown that she wore at her coming out ball in 1958.

If you happen to be in London, do check out the phenomenal display of couture and society living (it's the closest I'll ever get). And don't fear -- you have an entire year to check out the exhibition.

Where: Kensington Palace, London, 0844 482 7799 or book online at
www.hrp.org.uk
When: Opens June 11 2008 until June 2009
Cost: adults £12.30, students/seniors £10.75, under 16s £6.15, under 5 FREE, family ticket (up to 2 adults and 3 children) £34.00

Admission to the exhibition is included in the Kensington Palace ticket price.

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Daytime Shoes and 1920s Exotic Dancers

I swear, that title was not a ploy to get you to click. They do have something in common.

For the month of June, Turner Classic Movies (TCM) is spotlighting Asian images in film. Last week, I watched a film called Piccadilly starring the beautiful Anna May Wong. I am not familiar with her work, but I was fascinated by her breakthrough roles in early cinema.

Piccadilly is a silent film from 1929 set in London. Shosho, Wong's character, is a poor dishwasher from the wrong side of the tracks who works in an extravagant club called "The Piccadilly". After catching the attention of her boss, who runs a very tight ship, while dancing on top of a table in the kitchen, she becomes the center attention as the new exotic act. Her exotic beauty and sensuous dancing mesmerize the audience, including her boss.

Of course, being a fashion historian and vintage lover, I was totally captivated by the costumes. But not so much by the dancers' costumes as you would expect. I was even more intrigued by the costumes of the simple folks - we're so used to seeing this fantasy of what people wore at the time. In cinema, even the down trodden seem to dress better than what was worn in real life. But this film really captured the essence of what I imagine was worn by the working class.

In one scene, Ana May Wong is wearing a simple skirt and a knit sweater with an adorable keyhole neckline punctuated with little rhinestones. She wore a small beret pulled over her severe bangs. And although her stockings had runs, her shoes were simply adorable. Her mary jane shoes buckled at the top of the foot rather than the side.

This pair of Farylrobin Gia shoes look exactly like Shosho's shoes, except these come with a modern open toe. These shoes are perfect with a little dropped waist dress - a much more unique alternative to gladiators for the summer.

By the end of the film, Anna May has ditched her shabby rags and grows accustomed to the life of an exotic dancer - in those days, her type of dancing was a bit risqué. Anna May clutches fur-trimmed coats and the finest cloches graze her brow - right before the jilted dancer she replaces seeks her revenge. I won't tell you the rest. Go out and watch it.

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Yoox.com Launches Vintage Dior collection

Today, Yoox.com launches its newest vintage installation. Yoox traces the history of the maison Christian Dior with a selection of Vintage clothing and accessories. Through July, you'll get to feast your eyes on a carefully selected collection, curated but none other than Holly Brubach, a woman that I thank my writing instructor Sally de Lourenco for introducing me to her work.

Holly Brubach is a talented writer who has the keen ability to write prose about couture but in such a sassy and entertaining manner that non New Yorker socialites like me can appreciate. She curated the last vintage sale which featured vintage Chanel pieces, which incidentally flew off the virtual shelf.

"The limited time YOOX.COM Christian Dior Vintage Sale will feature a selection of hard-to-find signature styles and classic everyday treasures. With the expertise of Holly Brubach, renowned fashion critic and creative consultant for YOOX.COM, items were collected from a variety of sources such as estate sales, private collections and auctions from prestigious houses like Christie's New York. Pieces that were once hidden in one corner of the world, will now be available to anyone with internet access."

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Vintage Dior and Internet Serendipity

Has this ever happened to you? Some important event happens in your life, maybe not directly affecting you, but significant enough for you to stop and think, and then 2, 3, 4 other things happen that are related in some way to that initial event?

Sunday, the beloved Yves Saint Laurent dies. His career started when he took over the House of Dior.

Today, I read a thread on eBay's Vintage Clothing and Accessories board, which I tend to stay off of because it's a bit drama ridden, where a woman was asking for help on some of her 106 year old granny's dresses. One of them being a 1958 Christian Dior haute couture dress -- the first year Yves designed for the house. Oh, and she has 20 more in NY. Cue fainting.

Then, I received an email from Yoox.com about their new collection of vintage. And who should the designer be this time? That's right -- Dior. More about this collection and sale later because I am especially excited about it.

It is bitter sweet, with the passing of Yves Saint Laurent, but it almost feels like the vintage cosmos are lining up to bring us some fashion contentment.

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Vintage Find - 1970s Yves Saint Laurent Ruffle Blouse

In the mid 1960s, a talented young man opened his very first design house in the capital of haute couture, Paris.

After working at the house of Dior, Yves Saint Laurent went on to start his own line. While many will argue that his designs weren't cutting edge, one cannot deny the quality of his designs were impeccable. He was also one of the first designers to understand the importance of Ready to Wear in terms of business and customer needs. His answer to the world of Haute Couture that was out of reach for so many was his Rive Gauche line.

In honor of Mr. Saint Laurent, this weeks Vintage Find is a beautiful blouse from the height of his career.

This 1970s ruffled, wrap blouse is indicative of his ability take a wearable staple to a new height of luxury with details such as silver lame and chiffon.

available at Vintage-a-Peel.com
£95

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Levi's Jeans - Vintage or Reproduction?

Levi Strauss & Co. has found a lucrative niche in their 100-year-old clothing line -reproduction jeans.

Levi's® newest addition to their line is the 1966 646™ bell bottoms as seen on vintage maven Nicole Richie. Levi takes selvage, dead stock fabric and manufactures a whole line based on the original 1966 pattern. The new/old line of jeans retails for $78-$154 and comes in two colors.

However, a quick search on eBay reveals that original vintage Levi's® 646™ bell bottoms have sold for as little as $17.99 up to $170, with a few pairs being new-old stock.

As much as I love vintage clothing, sometimes I am in favor of reproductions because clothing from very early decades is impossible to find in good condition or in wearable sizes. But I am torn about the 1966 646™ bell bottom Levis, which truthfully are more of a flare than a bell bottom. Do you think it's better to buy them new or vintage?

(Photo © levisstore.com)

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Vintage Find - Chunky Hearts Bakelite Necklace

I was so thrilled when I saw models walking down the runway dripping with chunky, bold plastic accessories at shows like Yves Saint Laurent and Phillip Lim. I anticipate that chunky plastic jewelery will be as big a hit in 2008 as it was in the '20s and '30s.

Chunky, clunky and beautiful plastic necklaces and bangles are the accessories of choice for Art Deco lovers. We can thank Leo H. Baekeland for creating the wonder plastic that was used in everything from radios to billiard balls. After the Depression (or "Economic Slow Down") women who wanted to cheer up an outfit wore inexpensive, but beautiful Bakelite jewelry. And the pretty little plastic baubles caught on - even rich ladies wanted an arm full of colorful bangles.

Bakelite jewelry seems to only go up in price and you can still find it at thrift stores, which goes to show how resilient the plastic is. I just found a butterscotch swirled bangle with an embedded serpentine metal ring. Score!

The vintage find for this week is a gorgeous set of butterscotch and caramel Bakelite necklace and earrings. The tortoiseshell like hearts really take this necklace the realm of fashion versus collectible. And at only $200 for the set, it's a steal!

available at JewelDiva.com

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A Marimekko Mystery - Earrings ??

By now, everyone who loves the bold, graphic prints of Marimekko has heard of the amazing collection at H&M.

I also wanted to share with you the Marimekko concept store because colorful shapes and patterns shouldn't just be worn on your body! They carry a slew of punchy patterned lifestyle products from linens to art work.

But I am totally stumped on this pair of earrings I acquired. They are marked marimekko® DESIGN BY AURIFEX.

Are they vintage? They must be licensed and not truly Marimekko. I can't seem to find any information on them. Marimekko experts - help!

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More Vintage Hair Styles

A few months ago, a reader emailed and asked about tutorials for vintage hairstyles. I came across more great video tutorials collected by Miss Pumpkin.

The young woman doing the Rosie the Riveter style has the most amazing hair! I'm jealous at the massive amount of locks.

Which is your favorite look? Do you have a link to a great vintage hair tutorial? Share!

Photo: Jupiter Images

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Vintage Find of the Week - 1950s Ballerina Dress

Some may argue that fashion is not art. But when your skirt looks like an abstract painting depicting dainty ballerinas and graceful dancers, how can one think otherwise?

The 1950s brought about some of the most beautiful abstract prints of flowers, dancers and a number of other figures that make girls' hearts go zing. This full skirt vintage dress by Lilli Ann, available at Poshgirlvintage.com, could fit right in with the watercolor florals and illustrated prints found on the runways of New York and Milan this spring. Wear an original!

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Vintage from LA to NY

Wow. I don't post for a couple days and mainstream media, specifically newspapers, are all talking about vintage! Yippee. Someone's getting it.

The New York Times interviewed her vintage highness, Dita Von Teese. She spills on burlesque, her divorce and why she got in trouble with PETA!

Meanwhile, the LA Times reports that one of my favorite vintage enthusiasts, Liz Goldwyn, is curating a vintage collection of hats and sweater clips for Opening Ceremony. I bought Liz's book "Pretty Things". You can tell how much time and devotion she put into that book. Just looking at the pretty pink cover and embossed gold lettering makes me happy.

Also in the LA Times, a photo editorial on shoes! From the 1920s to the 1980s. Vintage Fashion Guild member, author and (my guess) a tad bit of a shoe fetishist, Jonathan Walford shares some of his prized treasures in this great visual timeline. Be sure to check out Jonathan's book, The Seductive Shoe: Four Centuries of Fashion Footwear.

The good thing is that more this could lead more fashionistas into the wonderful world of vintage, which is just good for eye candy. The bad thing is that more fashionistas will be wearing vintage, which means less for me.

Enjoy the links!

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Manifique Courreges Space Age Fashion Show

Before Viktor and Rolf tortured their models by making them walk the runway pre-equipped with their own lighting (models need a union!), Courreges was outfitting women in completely unwearable, but utterly breathtaking designs that transformed the models into a walking sculpture.

photo courtesy of NY Times

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YSL - the fusion between fashion and art

Yves Saint Laurent is undoubtedly one of the greatest French fashion designers of all time. The talent designer is best known for his Le Smoking suit. He is also one of the first to popularize Ready to Wear with his Rive Gauche line in 1966.

Unlike other French couturiers, Yves Saint Laurent took inspiration from the street for his couture collection. But he was equally influenced by art and paid homage to some of the greatest modern, cultural and classical artists of our times with literal fashion interpretations of their creations. His jersey dresses became canvass as he transformed evening wear into wearable art.

The chic ladies at Dos Mujeres y Un Vestido have written a fabulous blog post curating the works of Yves Saint Laurent alongside the original inspirations.

Go fire up your Babblefish because you don't want to miss a single palabra.

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Saks and the Decades of Style

Saks Fifth Ave. has a beautiful fashion editorial on their website using modern, vintage inspired outfits spanning the 1920s through the 1990s. I got a good giggle out of the 1990s spread because it reminded me of Elaine on Seinfeld with her lace up oxfords and minimal garments.

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Vintage Find - Chunky Mary Janes

I love all of the vintage inspired booties, shoe boots and mary janes I am seeing on the runways. I love a decorative vamp but appreciate a wearable shoe that looks stylish.

i think these white leather 60s mary janes have to look of a fashion forward shoe witht he comfort of a low chunky heel. Pair these with a pair of bright tights and you'll look like you just stepped out of an edgy magazine.

available at eBay.com

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Vintage Find - 60s Courreges Shift

Shift happens! And if you're lucky, it happens in an ultra cute way, wrapped in a mod bow.

available on eBay

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Valentine's Day Poiret Auction

Last year a popular exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art renewed interest in the French couturier Paul Poiret, interest that is likely to continue on Feb. 14 with a sale of his original clothing designs in Paris.

Now Poiret's grandchildren have consigned 124 of his designs and some paintings to Beaussant-Lefèvre, an auction house that uses the Drouot premises. The clothes belonged to Denise Boulet-Poiret, Poiret's handsome wife, who can be seen wearing them in period photos in the catalog.

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Vintage Chanel Part Deux at Yoox.com

One of my favorite online stores is Yoox.com. Where else can you find unheard of in the States Italian designers mingling with luxury vintage? This is the best of both worlds.

Currently, Yoox.com is offering their second installment of Simply Coco Chanel, a collection of covetable vintage and previously owned Chanel dress, handbags, and jewelry from the Holly Brubach's personal stash.

I imagine Ms. Brubach's time at the New York Times afforded her first eye view of each season's collections. I mean look at it all. Maybe it's just that I am not from NY, but how does someone amass so much Coco? But like Holly, I feel very confident when I do buy Chanel, all two pieces. Looking at the prices her pieces are commanding on Yoox, the only other brand I know that retains such great value is Honda, and well that's just not chic enough.

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Worth Collection at Bullocks Wilshire Tea Room

Last Saturday, I was lucky enough to attend the runway show of the Worth Collection at the historical Bullocks Wilshire Tea Room in Los Angeles.

The Tea Room is perched on the 5th floor of the art deco Bullocks Wilshire, now home to Southwestern Law School.

The Worth Collection was shown alongside fashions from the 40s to the 70s to show the bridge between then and now as a way bring the collection to a younger audience. I just loved the idea of mixing the new with the old in honor of one of the most beloved shopping destinations in Los Angeles history.

Well heeled ladies in tea appropriate suits mingled with young, fresh faced attendees. The theme was carried throughout the event beautifully.

Leather jackets, pencil skirts and smart business casual suits for well healed ladies shared the runway through the tea room with vintage ensembles such as a 1950s brocade dress and jacket trimmed in mink, a 1940s champaign, bias cut negligee and robe, and a 1950s wedding gown.

The Worth Collection is a line of ready to wear clothing for the busy woman who wants to dress well, wear quality clothing, but doesn't have the time to shop for herself or would like to entrust someone with sophisticated taste to pick some things out for her. A Worth representative will invite customers to view the exclusive collections in their home, much like you would shop in a designer's salon in a major, high end department store, such as Bullocks.

From a business standpoint, the the business model is a smart idea. Women get unique merchandise that isn't sold in mass at a department store, they can purchase quality items with reasonable price tags because the the overhead is low, and the quality seemed to be luxurious-leathers, fine wools and modern silhouettes made the line attractive.

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The Vintage IT Bags

Can you really claim any bag is an "IT" bag if it's only IT for one season? An IT bag should be iconic, recognizable in a few decades and be beautiful as well as utilitarian without need of celebrity convincing.

Here is our top 5 list of the IT bag of all times:

1. Lucite Box Purse
Described as wearable sculpture, these beautiful little bags can be intricately carved or sculpted into whimsical shapes like honeycombs.

available at Deja-Voodoo.com
$395

2. Exotic Skin Kelly Bag
For a serious dame, only a serious bag will do. Exotic skins in a no nonsense, structured shape lets the world you are the boss, and yes, you do wear the pencil skirt in the family.

Black alligator Kelly bag by Bellestone
available at Modbag.com
$275

3. Huge Satchel
By the time the 1970s rolled around, women were on the go-working, raising families, and doing their own thing-calisthenics, self help classes. That requires a lot of stuff and only a big bag will do.

available at La Pouchette.com
$995

4. the Clutch
It's diminutive size only allows the ultimate feminine materials: money and lipstick.

1950s Dorset Rex Hand Painted Clutch
available at Babylonmall.com
$95

1980s Judith Leiber Alligator Clutch
available at Decades Inc.
email or call for price

5. the Icon
Regardless of times or place, these bags were meant to be icons. They represent women we all, deep down, aspire to be.

available at Legacy-NYC.com
Black Hermes Kelly Bag
$3500

Chanel 2.55
A weekly search on eBay will bring up some gems. But be careful-fakes turn up all the time. You can rely on bags sold by La Poupette authorized sellers to be genuine.

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Mary Ann Magnin - the Woman Behind the Man

Recently, I was lucky enough to acquire a beautiful and rare vintage Norman Norell for I.Magnin coat. I'm still doing some research on it, so I will post pictures when I figure out what I will do with the coat-sell it at Debutanteclothing.com or an auction house specializing in vintage clothing and textiles.

As I was doing research, I came across this fascinating and amusing article about Mary Ann Magnin, Mr. Isaac Magnin's wife, in a 1936 issue of Time magazine. Isn't the "internets" grand?

What's even more interesting, from a business perspective, is that the retail store was only in the red twice as of the publication of this article-once during the San Francisco fire and the other during the San Francisco earthquake.

And with stores online going under, even with such low overhead, maybe retail store owners need to look at the Magnin model to stay in the black. What was their secret? Possibly that I. Magnin had exclusives with designers. That's right. Exclusive Hattie Carnegie and Norman Norells.

But back to the woman behind the man.

Late in the 1870's, the Magnin's set out for San Francisco. There Mrs. Magnin picked a shop between the business and residential districts to catch the trade both ways. Isaac Magnin carved and Mrs. Magnin sold notions. An energetic, dominating woman, handy with her needle, Mrs. Magnin began to make and sell fancy baby clothes, gradually branching into trousseaux. The shop followed the fashionable neighborhoods, and before long I. Magnin & Co. was a San Francisco institution. Eventually the business took on a corporate existence, though the public was not let In until 1919.

The most amusing anecdote in this article was how Mary Ann Magnin, with her enterprising ways, decided whom to leave the store operation to after Isaac's death. She consulted a palmist.

While most of the spotlight shined on the name I. Magnin, the real credit belongs to Mrs. Mary Ann Magnin, who was business savvy enough to find a good store front and started an enterprise from notions and baby clothes.

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