Debutante Clothing :: The DebLog
Daytime Shoes and 1920s Exotic Dancers
I swear, that title was not a ploy to get you to click. They do have something in common.
For the month of June, Turner Classic Movies (TCM) is spotlighting Asian images in film. Last week, I watched a film called Piccadilly starring the beautiful Anna May Wong. I am not familiar with her work, but I was fascinated by her breakthrough roles in early cinema.
Piccadilly is a silent film from 1929 set in London. Shosho, Wong's character, is a poor dishwasher from the wrong side of the tracks who works in an extravagant club called "The Piccadilly". After catching the attention of her boss, who runs a very tight ship, while dancing on top of a table in the kitchen, she becomes the center attention as the new exotic act. Her exotic beauty and sensuous dancing mesmerize the audience, including her boss.
Of course, being a fashion historian and vintage lover, I was totally captivated by the costumes. But not so much by the dancers' costumes as you would expect. I was even more intrigued by the costumes of the simple folks - we're so used to seeing this fantasy of what people wore at the time. In cinema, even the down trodden seem to dress better than what was worn in real life. But this film really captured the essence of what I imagine was worn by the working class.
In one scene, Ana May Wong is wearing a simple skirt and a knit sweater with an adorable keyhole neckline punctuated with little rhinestones. She wore a small beret pulled over her severe bangs. And although her stockings had runs, her shoes were simply adorable. Her mary jane shoes buckled at the top of the foot rather than the side.
This pair of Farylrobin Gia shoes look exactly like Shosho's shoes, except these come with a modern open toe. These shoes are perfect with a little dropped waist dress - a much more unique alternative to gladiators for the summer.
By the end of the film, Anna May has ditched her shabby rags and grows accustomed to the life of an exotic dancer - in those days, her type of dancing was a bit risqué. Anna May clutches fur-trimmed coats and the finest cloches graze her brow - right before the jilted dancer she replaces seeks her revenge. I won't tell you the rest. Go out and watch it.
Posted by Sandra at 12:00 AM
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Shout Out to Latino CFDA Winners
As a writer, it's always a little frustrating to see so few Latino surnames on the mastheads. Especially in fashion. But at the Oscars of fashion, CFDA award winners at included two!
Francisco Costa won Womesnswear Designer Of the Year and Candy Pratts Price (whom I never even knew was Puerto Rican) won the Eugenia Sheppard Award, presented by her boss lady, Anna Wintour.
I'm really not trying to play the race card, but as a Hispanic woman, I feel overwhelming joy when I see a Hispanic win such high accolades. It makes me feel like doors aren't as closed as they once were. But then again, the fashion world has always been much more open to anything.
Photos: Sherly Rabbani and Josephine Solimene, Style.com
Posted by Sandra at 12:00 AM
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Vintage Fashion Mix - Ode to Carrie Bradshaw
When I was writing for Fashiontribes and Lesley explained why I was a perfect fit for the Downtown Doll tribe, she told me to think vintage meets downtown chic - think Carrie Bradshaw. And boy does this peg my style, maybe not in such a literal Carrie way, but in the sense of mixing vintage and modern fashion with unique details.
In honor of the much anticipated release of the Sex and the City movie, which I'm sure will cause swarms of women to flock to the local cinema leaving every known man at home, I present to you my ode to Carrie Bradshaw - vintage style!
The vintage dress featured int he mix up is a combination of the bubble peplum dress and the bold graphic florals Carrie wears. Search for 1950s floral dress to score the look. I also included a cute little travel novelty bag. Novelty bags are extremely hard to find, and forget the deal. If you find a vintage novelty bag as cute as the Eiffel Tower bag by Timmy Woods, nab it!
Posted by Sandra at 12:40 AM
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Costume Institute Gala Vintage Style
You know you are somebody in the fashion world if you receive an invitation the Costume Institute's annual gala. The theme this year was Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy. While some fashions were blatantly superhero inspired (Wonder Woman wore gold cuffs), many of the guests went for pretty and fantastical.
I was very pleased to see some vintage amongst the sea of couture and high end designers. But I have to admit, some of the vintage pieces weren't as inspiring as some of the new designs, and that was disappointing. Of the many ways to infuse fantasy and a touch of costume to your outfit, you would think vintage would be the way to go. Wearing vintage in and of itself, to an even like this requires more than just a vintage dress - here's you chance to pull out the most outrageous and beautiful pieces known to fashion history.
I felt these fell a little short. But I'll let you decide.
Photo: Sherly Rabbani and Josephine Solimene
Images:
Michelle Trachtenberg, in a vintage skirt and top with Kwiat diamonds and a Cesare Paciotti clutch.
Kate Bosworth, in vintage Chanel Haute Couture
Caroline Trentini, in vintage Thierry Mugler and Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry.
Anna Sui, in vintage Zandra Rhodes and boots of her own design.
And some notable non-vintage looks:
Sarah Brown
Maggie Gyllenhaal
Dita Von Teese
Check out the rest of the images, all 164 of them!, at Style.com
Shirmpton Couture and Style It also have some images and commentary on the big event.
Posted by Sandra at 8:15 PM
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LA Times Vintage Shopping Guide & Finds
I am growing more and more fond of the LA Times Image section. The writers are not afraid to mix vintage and modern fashion. My two favorite staff writers are Emili Vesilind and Erin Weinger. They are my vintage soul sisters.
Emili wrote a piece last week where she shared online vintage shopping tips and a stellar photo essay of choice vintage goodies. She also shared her favorite online vintage stores. While Debutante Clothing was not listed (I forgive you Erin) some of my favorites were - Archive Vintage, Femminastyle Vintage, and Swank Vintage all received great reviews.
Emili's article shares some solid advice on shopping for vintage online. I shared very similar online vintage shopping tips in 2005. It's good to know we are all engaging in conversation that helps shoppers find treasures online.
Posted by Sandra at 2:18 PM
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Vintage from LA to NY
Wow. I don't post for a couple days and mainstream media, specifically newspapers, are all talking about vintage! Yippee. Someone's getting it.
The New York Times interviewed her vintage highness, Dita Von Teese. She spills on burlesque, her divorce and why she got in trouble with PETA!
Meanwhile, the LA Times reports that one of my favorite vintage enthusiasts, Liz Goldwyn, is curating a vintage collection of hats and sweater clips for Opening Ceremony. I bought Liz's book "Pretty Things". You can tell how much time and devotion she put into that book. Just looking at the pretty pink cover and embossed gold lettering makes me happy.
Also in the LA Times, a photo editorial on shoes! From the 1920s to the 1980s. Vintage Fashion Guild member, author and (my guess) a tad bit of a shoe fetishist, Jonathan Walford shares some of his prized treasures in this great visual timeline. Be sure to check out Jonathan's book, The Seductive Shoe: Four Centuries of Fashion Footwear.
The good thing is that more this could lead more fashionistas into the wonderful world of vintage, which is just good for eye candy. The bad thing is that more fashionistas will be wearing vintage, which means less for me.
Enjoy the links!
Posted by Sandra at 5:00 PM
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Manifique Courreges Space Age Fashion Show
Before Viktor and Rolf tortured their models by making them walk the runway pre-equipped with their own lighting (models need a union!), Courreges was outfitting women in completely unwearable, but utterly breathtaking designs that transformed the models into a walking sculpture.
photo courtesy of NY Times
Posted by Sandra at 8:28 AM
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Vintage Society on Style.com
One of my favorite vintage style mavens, Beth of The Vintage Society, was interviewed by Maya Singer for Style.com. Beth was chosen by OC brand Quicksilver as a candidate for their new mentorship and sponsorship program.
Quicksilver will be helping Beth realize her dreams in fashion and writing but providing her a work space and I imagine funding to work on her projects.
Congrats! Any time a vintage girl gets recognized by mainstream fashion a vintage angel gets a used set of stylish and wearable wings.
Posted by Sandra at 9:31 PM
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Zandra Rhodes Art Film - Eat Your Chiffon
The 1960s brought on an explosion of creative genius in the British arts scene. And the biggest bomb of color and innovation was a young fashion designer named Zandra Rhodes.
Zandra wasn't just inspired by her surroundings, she lived them-green hair, theatrical makeup and bold patterns were her extroverted fatigues. While her color palette is bold and punchy, her designs are fluid and feminine using fabrics such as chiffon, organza and crinoline. She designs for women like me who like "Pretty Punk Rock".
While her hair color has changed to a punctuating fuschia, she remains a walking canvas reflecting her love for nature, art and design.
Apparently, Zandra's friends are as colorful and surreal as her designs. "Chapter7: Eat Your Chiffon" is a surreal dinner party art film starring fashion icons such as Natt Weller, Marios Schwab and IQONS founder, Rafael Jimenez amongst others and some other strange characters in Zandra Rhodes penthouse. The film was shot by an amazing new photographer/filmmaker Ben Charles Edwards (www.bencharlesedwards.com) who was inspired by Chapter 7 of Alice in Wonderland and John Waters' Eat Your Make-Up.
Part 1 was released last week and part 2 was released today. You can expect Part 3 on the 21st. Please take a look here for a preview www.glassloves.com or www.youtube.com/glassloves.
Enjoy!
Posted by Sandra at 7:44 PM
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