With the vintage Dior sale now under way at Yoox.com, Holly Brubach shares some insider tips on how to shop for vintage clothing. Holly has served as Style Editor at The New York Times Magazine and The New Yorker. She compiled a collection of her essays and published a book titled "A Dedicated Follower of Fashion". Currently, she is also a contributing editor for Vanity Fair and the Creative Consultant for YOOX. Is there anything she can't do?
Check out this special Q & A with the vintage expert...
What are a few statement pieces in the Dior sale?
A Haute Couture cocktail dress from the 1967 Spring Summer collection, which once belonged to Maria Felix, the legendary film star of the 1940s-1950s and devoted customer of Dior. The dress was purchased from Christie's of New York.
With the founder's death in 1957, Yves Saint Laurent took command of the Dior Empire adding a modern twist to Dior's excellence is portrayed in the gorgeous afternoon dress in giraffe print featured in the sale.
Dior's accessories are statement pieces within themselves. The crystal starburst earrings or the Brooch in Gold toned Metal with Cabochon Stones are truly eye catching pieces that can bring elegance to any outfit; whether it is paired with a pair of jeans, a suit, or an evening dress.
What do you believe are the best years of Christian Dior's work?
Certainly 1947, the launch of the New Look and its elaboration in subsequent seasons. But he remained a dominant force in fashion throughout the Fifties. All designers have their ups and downs, but I don't believe Dior had a "bad" collection. His career was cut short by his untimely death.
How should vintage be worn today?
The first rule of thumb is: not head-to-toe. It's important to mix vintage with contemporary, to integrate the old with the new in a way that doesn't call too much attention to the vintage item(s), just as an antique chair can become part of a modern room. Concentrate on the whole effect and not on a single piece. Many people treat vintage too formally, maybe because it's "precious." But one great way to make it seem completely timely is to pair it with jeans.
What accessories best go with a vintage outfit?
Ones that aren't of the same period. It's important to contrast the old and the new and, if the outfit has great presence, not to choose accessories that are self-important and compete with it.
What is the best way to shop for vintage?
Online! The vintage landscape has been transformed by the internet, bringing unique pieces to an avid audience. It's still worthwhile, making the rounds of the dealers, but it requires a lot of legwork and the best of them are scattered across too many cities for one person to cover.
How should vintage be cleaned and maintained?
With care! Find the best dry cleaner where you live, with a reputation for handling high fashion and a familiarity with different materials. The most fanatical collectors store their clothes in boxes, in acid-free tissue, to preserve items that are museum-worthy. But hanging vintage items that you wear often is fine.
If I buy vintage will I look old?
No, but that's a common fear. The crucial thing is to mix it. It requires a certain self-assurance to carry off wearing vintage. Perhaps that's why it's often associated with women who have great style.
How do you know if you are getting a deal with vintage pieces?
It helps to know a little history, which is easily accessible. As far as pricing is concerned, you can research what similar items from the same designers have sold for. But because pieces are often one-of-a-kind and the demand is competitive, the rule of thumb is the same as for anything else in fashion: if you love it enough, it's worth the price....
How can I wear vintage year round?
Some designers, like Emilio Pucci, specialized in resort wear and their looks translate easily into warm climates and seasons. Others, like Balenciaga, were better known for their coats and suits, more structured looks. Accessories are a great way to incorporate vintage into a summer wardrobe. Experiment with vintage jewelry, handbags and scarves to add an accent to the latest clothes in a way that's chic and personal. Dior's pieces are timeless and able to be worn year round, making them true fashion treasures to own.
I just stumbled across your blog on Google. Anyway, I was very intrigued when I read the 5 things about you because I am going to start teaching this fall and am concerned about my love of vintage and rockabilly fashions in such a conservative place. I have tattoos, but I have figured out ways to cover them, but it's the clothes themselves that are stumping me. I can find plenty of after work clothes, but clothes that are "teacher-looking" enough yet still retain some sense of my love of vintage/rockabilly are soooo hard to find. What kinds of stores did you shop at as a teacher or did you dress one way at work and another after work? I'm really for advice from someone who has been there/done that! How far did you let your fashion take you or did the job dictate for you a more conservative look? I hope to hear any advice or stories you would like to share. Renee
