Debutante Clothing :: A vintage clothing and fashion blog for unconventional style where vintage and runway meet.

There is no doubt that our First Lady has brought style back to the White House. On inauguration day, all eyes were watching for what Michelle Obama would be wearing, oh and the inauguration of the President too of course. One woman was behind the dazzling brooch that set off the ensemble Isabel Toledo had created. That woman was none other than the dame of bijoux - Carole Tanenbaum.

Carole Tanenbaum has been in the vintage costume jewelry business for 25 years. Her online store, Carole Tanenbaum Vintage Collection, has been a mecca for high end, collectible vintage costume jewelry. She has accessorized everyone from Natalie Portman to Sarah Jessica Parker to First Lady Michelle Obama. Carole was gracious enough to answer a few burning questions I had.

People who have a passion for fashion always explain their infatuation by stating that fashion is art - another form of expression. Carole Tanenbaum proves this statement true. There is no doubt that her former life in art collecting and dealing was training for the small pieces of art she has so lovingly and passionately collected.

Meet Carole Tanenbaum...

DC: How did you know you wanted your life's work to be in costume jewelry?

CT: Sometimes experiences in life dictate where you go and what you do. I have always been a collector - of art, vintage quilts, etc. My primary business was fine art consulting. It was when, on a trip to London, about 28 yrs ago, that I stumbled on a small but very select collection of Vintage Costume Jewelry and fell in love. As a collector, I made it my mission to purchase as many pieces as I loved, until a few yrs later, I amassed several thousand jewels. I had no intention of going into this business ,as I was very happy buying and selling art. But I approached Holt Renfrew, Canada to see if they were interested in doing a trunk show (1994). They were smitten, gave me my own dept (!) And that was the beginning of CTVC.

DC: You provide jewelry for so many celebrities, even First Lady Michelle Obama. Are the famous more daring when it comes to jewelry?

CT: Most stars are not daring in their tastes. They gravitate towards pieces that are "safe". There are a few exceptions however. Sarah Jessica Parker is extremely creative, not only with her choices, but with the unconventional way she wears her pieces, her placements. Mrs Obama also makes unusual choices, and mixes vintage with contemporary.

DC: Michelle Obama has become quite the fashion icon. How did you feel being one of the people responsible for dressing First Lady Michelle Obama?

CT: Michelle has been wearing CTVC well before the election. But I was surprised and extremely proud that she chose one of our early, historical brooches for the inauguration, when she could certainly have worn Fred Leighton, Harry Winston, or anyone. It was a unique choice, and one fitting with the times.

DC: You have provided many pieces of jewelry to film and television productions, most recently Grey Gardens with Jessica Lange and Drew Barrymore. What is your process when it comes to suggesting pieces for the screen?

CT: When we are selecting jewelry for film, we work with the stylist (s) in charge. They usually select in segments, as the film progresses. Each visit, they chose for a particular outfit(s) . They either give us very clear descriptions -color, scale, period etc, or they bring in the outfits. They generally over select, bring the pieces to the set and make a selection from there, within a day or two.

DC: When you are acquiring pieces for your collection, what do you gravitate to the most?

CT: When purchasing for my collection, I gravitate toward jewelry that shows imagination, creativity, and that is well made. I am interested in jewelry that is bold, and that makes a statement. High color; large scale, often small production.

DC: Are designer labels important when it comes to collecting costume jewelry?

CT: Designer labels do not affect my choices. My eye gravitates to the unusual. Many times an unsigned piece is more spectacular than a "ho hum" design by one of vintage's icons.

DC: Who are some of your favorite costume jewelry designers?

CT: Some of my favorite Vintage designers are Schreiner, Early colored Haskell, Sandor, Coppolo e Toppo, Schibensky, Vargas,Bakelite, Dior, and early french pieces.

DC: You wrote a fabulous book titled Fabulous Fakes. Any plans for a follow up book?

CT: I was thinking of writing a book on Schreiner, my absolute favorite. We've done the photography,of about 450 masterpieces, but there is little information about the manufacturer. So, the book would lack the educational tool needed to make it more than a table top book. Otherwise nothing planned in the near future, but you never know!

DC: Are there any costume jewelry designers today that you feel will be future collectibles?

CT: There are so many great designers out there today. I have started to collect Larry Vrba, Robert Sorrell, a bit of David Mandel, Iradj Moini, Alan Anderson (ck my blog on him on www.caroletanenbaum.com, Marni, Missoni, Cavali. All these people have unique ideas, a small production and excellent workmanship - 3 things collectors looks for.
I also like many pieces by Alexis Bitar, Monies, Hendler.

DC: Any tips for aspiring vintage costume jewelry collectors?

CT: I would urge new collectors to educate their eye. There are dozens of bks today on Vintage Costume Jewelry. See what interests you. Buy pieces that are in fine, original condition, well made and that speak to your personal aesthetics. Whether it be a designer, a period, a type of jewelry that draws you in, make sure it's authentic. As vintage becomes more and more popular, there are more fakes on the market, so trust whom you are buying from.

DC: If you had to exit the building to save your life and could only grab one item from your collection, what would it be?

CT: I can never answer that question, as we have over 20,000 pieces, all carefully selected by me . So, if I had to take one treasure with me I would probably take my favorite jewel, my husband!

The marketing savvy Andrea Merida was kind enough to let me contribute to her fantastic new site, FashionMarketingCoach.com. I'll be writing about marketing for vintage clothing businesses. My first article is up! It's all about the importance of photography in selling vintage. There are some great tips for newbie and veteran sellers new to online selling.

I'm really excited about this opportunity. I love sharing information, so I hope that my contributions will be helpful to anyone in the vintage fashion business. Read. Enjoy.

Poor Rachel Bilson. The former OC star's home was broken into this past Thursday, but it wasn't her TV and computer that were stolen. It was her collection of vintage clothing and family heirlooms which included a collection of vintage Chanel. I can't even imagine what it is like to be robbed of such items. A plasma TV can be replaced, just any other modern item, including designer clothing. But vintage? That's it! It's gone. And there probably not be another one like it. I wonder if any of it will show up on Ebay.com? 

Whoever broke in knew what they were going for. No regular cat burglar would know his vintage couture from a rag. Although, this could be like the episode when Carrie Bradshaw was robbed of her correctly-identified-by-the-mugger Manolos.

I just hope Miss Bilson insured her collectibles, but in a case like this, home insurance is not enough. If you collect vintage clothing and accessories, your treasures can be insured, just like fine jewelry and antiques. "Some may think that they're homeowners insurance policy covers their collectibles, but in most cases your homeowners policy is designed to cover personal property and is not nearly enough to protect your treasured collectibles," said Dan Walker of Dan Walker/Debbie Spilman-Collectibles Insurance Services.

Ehow.com has a very useful tutorial on how to obtain insurance for your vintage collectibles. I had never considered purchasing separate insurance for my vintage clothing and accessories, but as a seller, I have so much inventory its loss through theft or fire would set me back quite a bit of money.

Regardless of whether Rachel Bilson's Chanel collection was ready to wear or couture pieces, the collection could've been worth a fortune, but even more tragic is the loss of these one of a kind treasures and the time and patience it takes to collect.

I can imagine the heartbreak she must be feeling right now. But if she had a collectibles insurance policy, maybe she can find some comfort in a vintage clothing shopping spree!

This week's Vintage Roadshow round up is good for the mind and the eyes! Vintage bloggers are feeding their minds with vintage fashion history while others are looking for vintage inspiration for summer dressing. Check out the goods!

A Slip Of A Girl with vintage tips for laundering vintage girdles.
Couture Allure looks at vintage swimsuits from Tina Leser, Givenchy, and Polly Hornburg.
Glamoursplash takes note of Claire's McCardellisms.
Here's Looking Like You, Kid reviews Vintage Compacts & Beauty Accessories by Lynell Schwartz.
Kitsch-Slapped reviews Cinderella Nurse, a novel from the 1960s.
Things Your Grandmother Knew has FREE vintage slipper & scuff crochet patterns.

I am so very pleased to present Debutante Clothing's London Contributor, Mademoiselle Robot! Equal parts cuteness, smarts, and style, Mademoiselle gives us the inside scoop on anything vintage and cool from the stylish streets of London. Enjoy! -Sandra

Coming from Paris, I am used to a very homogeneous & cyclical lifestyle, where one trend replaces another. So if you like a type of music or clothes that aren't "in", you can't really find anything anywhere.

When I first moved to London, what struck me most is the sheer amount of coexisting trends. Not so much in Fashion, as people here have very individual styles and don't are not overly trend led, but in music, nightlife etc.

What is interesting about London though is that those different "tribes" don't really mix that much, and seem to stay put in their respective areas. You can pretty much divide London into four big sectors North, East, South & West.

East London - Late '40s to Early '60s

Even though the original "Swinging London" was found around Carnaby Street, it is now in East London that you can find most of the mid-century styles.

In the evenings, around Shoreditch, Bethnal Green & Old Street, there is a multitude of places to go to. A lot of people can be seen sporting prom dresses, checked shirts or bouffant hair dos. Nights like Grind A Gogo, the Birthday party or the Lady Luck club  are the best examples. A new night called The Blitz even features a '40s style band in a World War II décor.

If you are in it for the shopping, there are lots of small vintage clothes shops around Brick Lane. Every time I go there, a new shop appears. For furniture, around Spitalfields Market is the best place to hunt.

Icons - The Broken Hearts DJs, Katy Perry

West London - Late '60s and '70s

Portobello market is well known for its vintage treasures. Not only from the Seventies, but from all eras, as far back as the Twenties. However, there is a distinct hippie vibe in this area. Walking around Westbourne Grove (a short 5 min walk from Portobello Market), you cross paths with a lot of Boho princesses. Not always authentic vintage style, it definitely stems from Seventies groupies. If you are a fan of the GTO (Girls Together Outrageously)  you will feel right at home there.

Icons - Sienna Miller, Alexa Chung

North London - '80s

Camden is a strange area for fashion as it attracts such a wide variety of people. The area is mostly popular for 80's fashion - especially heavily rock influenced styles. You also find quite a few 80's does 50's new rockabilly kids around there. The best illustration of this new rockabilly being Vivien of Holloway's designs .

Icons - Peaches Geldof, Kelly Osbourne

South London - '90s

A lot of students live around New Cross and Camberwell and the style du jour seems to be Grunge. Doc Martens, lumberjack shirts, vintage denim and chunky knitwear is the local style. Sometimes a few VERY brights are thrown in for a bit of old rave style.

Icons - Agyness Deyn, M.I.A.

Don't take this as a London guide though, it is only my humble interpretation of London's vintage geography. Someone else's personal experience of the city might lead to completely different conclusions.

-Mademoiselle Robot

Parisian expat in London, Mademoiselle Robot is a magazine Editor turned fashion blogger.  On mademoisellerobot.com, she offers style tips, interviews of artists and designers, outfit ideas and she even launched her own TV channel!  Her blog has been featured in the Independent, A nous Paris, Modepass and many others.

photos:

As much as I love wearing and collecting vintage clothing, discovering the history behind the fashion is my favorite party. Unearthing and saving vintage fashion from death by landfill is my equivalent of finding fossilized bones in Hollywood - and my discoveries are prettier!

Because there is such an academic side to vintage clothing, I try my best to associate myself with people who are very knowledgeable. I belong to two organizations that really are the upper echelons of vintage clothing - Vintage Fashion Guild and Costume Society of America. In their Spring newsletter, CSA published a great list of bloggers to note and I was thrilled to see some of my faves on the list.

Liebemarlene Vintage Look Book - if you don't follow Rhiannon's blog, go there NOW! She is too cute too ignore.

A Dress a Day - This blog is a fun read. Nothing but vintage dresses and patterns with lots of eye candy.

Worn Through - This blog is a highly intelligent read with really insightful blog posts about fashion history and vintage influence. Written and edited by fashion historians and academics, one read will give your IQ a bit of a boost.

Decades - The famous celebrity vintage hot spot blogs about current inventory.

A couple blogs on the list that I hadn't read before, but plan to be a regular subscriber:

Jewel History - Lori Ettlinger Gross is the author of Brooches: Timeless Adornment. She blogs about jewelry and fashion, both vintage and contemporary.

Paula Baxter's blog - New York Public Library;s Curator of Exhibitions and Coordinator of Education has a blog. Get ready for some serious fashion history lessons.

A few weeks ago, I interviewed Abigail Rutherford of Leslie Hindman Auctioneers. As covetable as her job is, I envy Jeanne Suica even more. Jeanne jets sets across the world hunting through people's closets and spying collectible, auction worthy treasures. Check out this article she wrote just for Debutante Clothing!

I've been a part of the auction world for the past few years and it is probably my favorite part of my clothing business which is based in Europe.

We all have a story of a special piece that we've found and mine was a Jean Paul Gaultier dress that I picked up at Goodwill in New York City. The dress which was labelled Jean Paul Gaultier Maille was a long acid green net fabric with a gold metallic overlay print which resembled body contours. Not in perfect condition but for $40.00 I thought that I had found the perfect Halloween costume.

A few months later I decided to send a photo to an auction house in London that I had consigned with a few times. Imagine my surprise when I received an estimation of £300-£500 and learned that it was from 1996 and part of a major museum collection in Japan. A few months later and £500 richer I decided that I wanted to learn more about what made an item collectable and realized that I enjoyed sitting in the library day after day doing research as much as hunting for a great vintage find at my favorite yard sale.

I provide a range of services for clients selecting items that might be auction worthy, providing estimations in conjunction with one of the leading auction houses in Europe, scheduling large collection or estate evaluations worldwide and coordinating the logistics of putting their fine collectables up for auction. My clients are worldwide and diverse, from Parisians cleaning out their storage units, vintage dealers worldwide who may not have found a client in their local market for specialty pieces they need to sell, clients who want to remain anonymous or modern day fashionistas who don't have the time to handle the details of consigning their items.

Below are some general guidelines that auction houses follow in deciding if a piece might be suitable for auction:

Label and Design
Not everything that has a famous label is auction worthy. I think that all of us have seen pieces by our favorite designers and wondered "What were they thinking?" Pieces that usually attract attention are the pieces that speak to us and convey the message of the period and trademark of the designer. A very simple example is that of Emilio Pucci, his colorful prints are much more desireable than his solid colored clothing and because the fabric is signed throughout on most pieces there is usually not a doubt as to authenticity.

Design of course plays an important part. You may find an eyecatching piece at an estate sale without a label. Pieces without labels but that are well constructed or have a historical value may be desireable for auction houses. You may even get a wonderful surprise and have your unlabelled item attributed to a major designer or find out that it is much more valuable than you ever imagined.

Condition

In a perfect world everyone would take care of their clothing but we all know that while collectors generally want an item to be in perfect or near perfect condition there are many desirable items out there that have been enjoyed and well worn by their owners. Items which are strong examples of a particular period, designer or collection may still be auction worthy and bought but never worn by designers who are looking for inspiration, museums, or private individuals who are looking to complete a segment of their collection.

Documentation/Provenance

Do you have a piece that was featured in a fashion publication, a film or owned by someone famous? If so and you can provide proof your item it may certainly increase the "desirable factor" with bidders.

Age

Most of us know that a Schiaparelli dress would probably bring a fantastic price at auction but do you know that many newer items (up to the year 2000) are also appearing on a regular basis at auction houses worldwide? Fashionistas who love mixing old and new styles are now clamouring for front row seats at some of the major auction houses hoping to snap up a bargain Cheap & Chic cocktail dress or a gently used Hermes handbag.

My advice is to always deal with a reputable auction house. Not all auction houses will accept the same items and fees and charges vary. Estimations for consignment are free of charge and I can honestly say that most people that I have met or worked with at the major auction houses have been wonderful professional and knowlegable. There is no need to be initimidated by auction houses so clean out your closet and turn those unwanted items into cash and one of your treasures just may end up in a museum!

For a free evaluation of you items please don't hesitate to contact me at:
www.jeannesuica.com

When it comes to vintage clothing, couture and designer finds are the treasures that entice us to check one more thrift, visit one more estate sale, rummage through one more church bazaar. But when you find something so amazing that Ebay might be too small potatoes for your vintage find, it's time to hit the auction circuit.

Abigail Rutherford is the Director of Vintage Couture and Accessories at Leslie Hindman Auctioneers, one of the premier auction houses in the US. Located in Chicago, Ill., Leslie Hindman hold vintage couture and accessories auction three to four times per year. Rutherford is currently seeking lots for their upcoming couture auction April 19.

Abigail was gracious enough to take a few moments from her busy schedule to answer a few questions about couture and auctions...

How did you get your start in vintage couture?

Here at Leslie Hindman- My background was in Art History so this seemed like the perfect liaison between my two loves, fashion and art!

What's the best part of your job?

Uncovering the treasures that people bring in and learning the history behind each one, it is fascinating!

When it comes to designer and couture vintage, what do you look for in auction consignment pieces?

There are two categories that I look for- collectability and wearability. Both categories sell equally as well.

What are hot sellers right now at Leslie Hindman Auctioneers?

Evening and cocktail as well as Chanel and Hermes accessories.

What's been the highest closing auction you've come across?

Hermes crocodile Birkins always garner the highest price, they can be comparable to prices of Picassos!

What's been the strangest auction piece you've seen?

A see-through mesh evening gown from the 40s that sold for $4000 against an estimate of 200-400, I was stunned watching it go up at auction.

How does Chicago's vintage marketplace differ from New York?

New York has a very strong retail market, but is without an auction resource. Leslie Hindman is the premier auction resource in the country catering to clients worldwide. It should also be known that when buying at auction you are paying fair market value, which is closer to a wholesale value rather than a retail value, therefore the vintage couture at auction is less expensive than a retail venue that would be marking up these garments.

What types of bidders come to Leslie Hindman auctions?

There are a huge variety of bidders from all over. They are generally associated with museums, institutions, retail venues, or just private individuals looking to collect.

What should one do if they are interested in selling a vintage piece at a live auction?

Go to our website at www.lesliehindman.com and there are instructions for the consignment process!

Any tips for vintage bidders?

Always request more information on the piece, whether it is measurements or general condition, this information will better equip you when you go to bid!

Couture Allure shows how to recycle a vintage coat.

Debutante Clothing digs through the vintage Vogue archives and finds wisdom on handkerchiefs and reputations.

Here's Looking Like You, Kid shows off retro platform shoes that Raquel Welch could "Fathom".

Market Publique gives you an inside look at their Listing Page.

iKonic Vintage visits the swinging 60's with the first fashion video starring Peggy Moffitt wearing Rudi Gernreich.

In the last chapter of How to Dress for Success, Edith Head gave us the perfect formula for dressing to get and keep a man. But what about him? What about what we want our man, and our offspring, to look like? They are a direct extension of us.

"The woman who is always elegantly coiffed, meticulously dressed and fashionably turned out while her mate and offspring look like orphans of the storm deserves, and gets, little credit for her sparkling appearance."

Clothes Make the Man

Miss Head acknowledges that if your husband is a Dapper Dan, you needn't worry. However, if your guy is a Sloppy Joe, you may need to take matters into your own hands. She advises you pick out his clothes and lay them out for him. Especially if you want Sloppy to climb the career ladder.

She also suggests you get him a subscription to Esquire "for the articles". He won't be able to avoid the fashion so hopefully picks up a fashion cue or two. Give him advice on what looks good on him, but be gentle and tender. Don't take my approach - "You're going to wear THAT?" It doesn't work.

Formula for Having a Better Dressed Husband
1. Take an active interest in how your husband looks and in his wardrobe. Analyze both him and it.

2. Learn about men's fashions. Know about fabrics, styles, features and prices. Shop men's departments and men's magazines.

3. If your husband's wardrobe concept needs improvement, work with him (rather than on him) to educate his tastes, change habits and turn his indifference into enthusiasm.

4. Shop with him and for him to make sure his clothing i becoming, well-fitted, flattering and properly coordinated.

5. Most important of all, help to keep his wardrobe in condition - clean, pressed and mended. A well-groomed man looks successful and has the best chance of being successful.

Tomorrow...children and teens!

I started collecting vintage housewares and furniture way before I moved out of my parents' house. One time I came home with some rattan end tables and my mom furiously wondered where I thought I was going to keep them. I think I was experiencing more of a sense of saving these thrift store finds rather than actually having a design eye. I just bought what I felt was interesting and useful.

Fast forward, and now I am pleased when friends come over for dinner parties or cocktails and they praise my little home.

One of my favorite bloggers, Mademoiselle Robot, was featured in The Independent newspaper for her creative home decor. That girl can mix eras and textures like a pro. She even went as far as giving some decorating tips for people interested in this aesthetic.

I was so inspired by her blog post that I wanted to share some of my favorite thrifted and discount items. Just like my wardrobe, I never do top to bottom vintage. It's more pleasing to the eye to mix and match.

5 Tips for Decorating with Vintage

1. Buy what you love.
   

Your home should be pleasing to your eye. You have to live there. If you don't love your decor, you will not feel comfortable in your own home. If you love that moose head, use it!

2. Don't be afraid to mix wood tones.
   

The 1957 Better Homes and Gardens decorating book reminds us that wood is a color. This doesn't just apply to vintage, but vintage furniture that was meant to last was made of wood. Check for tones in the wood grain that may be complimentary to one another.


3. Be patient. Shop often.
   

My furniture did not come home with me in one weekend. That's one of the luxuries of buying new - you can get a catalog looking living room in one shopping trip.  But in order to achieve decor with character, you may have to be patient for the right piece to come along. Check your local thrift store, flea market, and even Ebay, often.


4. Mix it up.
   

True design comes from mixing unexpected elements, colors, and textures. With vintage furniture, you run the risk of looking like you live in a time warp - same goes for vintage clothing.  Don't be afraid to mix decades, vintage and modern, and shapes.  I tied the straight and rounded lines of my dining room together with a really inexpensive ceiling lamp at IKEA - it has a straight wooden base with rounded white plastic light shades - a perfect blend of both lines in the room.

5. Don't be afraid to re-purpose.
   

The goal of decorating with vintage is two fold - owning quality constructed pieces and creating a one of a kind look.  If you happen to find a fabulous dresser, but have no room or need for one, try re-purposing it as a storage credenza in the living room.  Or use a telephone stand as a holder for remote controls.  We re-purposed a wardrobe cabinet as a TV cabinet.  My husband just sawed out the inner drawers and we use the lower drawers for media storage. It would be a shame to leave a beautiful piece of furniture or accessory behind simply because you have no use for it  in it's current purpose - get creative.

Last week I shared a summary of the delightful yet ironically relevant How to Dress For Success book by the insanely talented costume designer, the late Edith Head.

This week, Ms. Head gives us a sure fire game plan on how to nab a guy, and even harder, how to keep him. In 1967, you couldn't stop for a Botox quickie at lunch time. You had to rely on Lycra and good styling tips to show off your god given assets in the best light possible.

But Edith doesn't want you to just run off and get married to the first bozo that comes your way. Rather, she treats the ritual of finding a guy like a hunt...

"If you don't know the man, or haven't met him, do what a hunter does. Go where the game is!"

And were is the game? Airports, train stations, hotel lobbies, anywhere you enjoy a hobby.

She also addresses the wallflower in us all - the girl that doesn't think she is attractive enough to find a suitor. Her secret? Be interesting. Be interesting to look at.

"Frequently at parties and premieres attended by Hollywood stars, visitors are shocked when they see the wives of our handsomest film stars.  These men who work constantly with women who are the epitome of glamor, very often marry women who are quite ordinary to look at.  The unknowing are inclined to ask "How on earth did she ever get him?"  I can tell you because I know. She interested him more than any other woman."

She talks about several types of men, and how to dress for them. The Sportsman, the Man About Town, the Intellectual, and the Successful Executive (Don Draper) all have an ideal perfect woman. Edith gives you accessorizing tips for last minute dates with these fascinating me.

Above all, she pleads us women to be a covered girl, and not a Cover Girl because in this society of "topless bathing suits", and man invariably marries the less exhibitionist woman. Man is a jealous creature by nature you know?

Success Formula for Getting and Keeping a Husband:

1. Decide want kind of man you want.

2. Find out what kind of girls he likes.

3. Know what kind of fashions pleases him.

4. Don't masquerade in clothes you hate just to attract a man. Be sure you are really, deep down in side, this kind of girl.  If not, find another man!

5. Learn all you can about him - his hobbies, his interests, his likes, his dislikes.

6. Be interested in his interests.

7. Choose your wardrobe to please him and suit his way of life.

8. After you get him, stay the way you were and don't relax into a post-marriage slump of careless marriage.

9. Look reasonably enticing in the morning - better at night.

I virtually met Malie Raef earlier this year when I discovered her amazing website Vintage Shopping Guide.com. She walks the fashion line working as a men's fashion designer and through her vintage fashion resource business. Malie has been there, done that when it comes to vintage fashion, and she wants to share her wealth of information with all vintage fashion mavens.

DC: How did you get involved in the crazy world of fashion?

VSG: I was born and raised in Houston Texas. I always knew I wanted to be a fashion designer, but I didn't know I would end up in menswear. I studied in Miami University of Art and Design. Then, my father insisted that I get a Bachelors degree, so I moved to Atlanta where I double majored Fashion Marketing and Design. Well, when I graduated I was kind of stuck in Atlanta, GA where there are not too many fashion design jobs. My very first job was with the Sero Shirt Company. It was a menswear company that did a label called Madison Trader. Well, that ended up being the very best thing that could have happened to me because the company was very small and I got to do EVERYTHING!

Unfortunately the Sero Shirt Company closed down a couple years later. From there I moved back to Miami to work for Perry Ellis International. (PEI is where I also met my now fiancé, Joe!) After a couple years there I made a big leap to come to NYC. I am still here and have worked for the same company, Phillips Van Heusen, ever sense. I design for both the Geoffrey Beene sportswear and the Van Heusen sportswear lines. And I love it!

DC: What is Vintage Shopping Guide? How did Vintage Shopping Guide come about?

VSG: VintageShoppingGuide.com is an online resource for all things relating to vintage clothing and accessories. We have a store listing of all vintage stores across the country. We also do interviews every other week with designers, stylists, curators, etc. talking about how they use vintage as inspiration in their work. We also list all fashion exhibits from around the world, and there is a VSG Blog.

VSG got started because as a designer you have to constantly shop for inspiration. That means shopping current designers at high end boutiques all the way to the down and dirty vintage stores. I had compiled a list of vintage stores from all the cities I had lived and visited. People I worked with were always asking me where to go and I would email them the list. Someone pointed out that this should be on the web, and VSG was born!

DC: Your articles and interviews are always so intriguing. How do you decide whom to interview?

VSG: There is really no special formula. I love talking to people and when I visit a store or a vintage trade show I start talking to people. Sometimes people recommend other people to me or sometimes I read about someone, and I think they might be interesting. Almost all the time people are willing to be interviewed.

DC: Which has been your best interview yet?

VSG: There have been some really good ones! But I learned a lot from Kerry Taylor from Kerry Taylor Auctions in London. She has worked for Sotheby's Auction House, and specializes in the super high end clothing and textiles. At that time I knew nothing about the auction side of vintage. She explained everything so well, and I ended up using much of the information later in my e-book How to Make Money Cleaning Out Your Closet in the chapter on selling via auction houses.

DC: What is your philosophy on vintage in the modern fashion landscape?

VSG: Don't date yourself! I love vintage as much as the next person, but I never wear it head to toe. I like to mix it in with current fashion so that it becomes just a cool skirt or an interesting top I have on. I would much rather someone say to me, "Hey, that's a really nice dress. Where did you get it?" Then I can say, "Oh, it's vintage." Smirk!

DC: How do you feel about some designers infusing so much vintage reference into their collections? How much is too much?

VSG: As a designer myself I am a little bit bias. I love to see designers using inspiration from all kinds of different sources. But I don't like it when they just copy it exactly. I believe you have to make something your own by changing it up just a little bit. You know, change the fabric, add a tuck here, change the sleeve or the collar. Do something so it is surprising and fresh.

DC: What's been your best vintage score?

VSG: I have two. My adorable fiancé got my engagement ring at Doyle & Doyle, and estate jewelry store here in NYC. It turned out to be a 1930s vintage Tiffany! I was ecstatic!

Then, when I was looking for my wedding dress, one day I decided to stop into this vintage store close by to where I work. I wasn't expecting to find anything as they don't really specialize in evening gowns. Anyway, I totally scored on my lunch break when I found this super pale pink rejected prom dress that is covered in tulle. It is strapless and super tight in the bodice and then poofs out like a princess dress down to right above my ankles! I feel like such an ingénue in that dress! The best part, is that even with the slight alteration, the dress was only $175. I love a bargain!

DC: Which are your favorite vintage stores in NY? LA? Anywhere else?

VSG: In NYC for jewelry you can't beat This N' That Collectibles. For casual clothes I go to Cheap Jacks. For the best selection of boots it has to be Daha Vintage. And for fancy vintage you have to go to New York Vintage. In LA, for casual I like Wasteland. For a more memorable evening dress The Way We Wore is incredible. In Miami you have to go to Miami Twice and Back-N-Style.

DC: You just developed an Ebook. Tell us about it.

VSG: With the economy being in such flux lately I was getting a lot of emails from people wanting to know where and how to sell their items to the vintage stores. So I decided to make a step-by-step guide that takes people through the steps of giving to charity, selling to a resale shop or vintage store, selling it themselves via online auction, and selling via action house. I worked directly with vintage store owners and auctioneers and other people in the vintage business to find out the inside scoop on what to look for, and what someone can expect from each kind of deal. The e-book is called How to Make Money Cleaning Out Your Closet, and it is available on VintageShoppingGuide.com and on Amazon.com Kindle Store.

DC: Who is your favorite designer-not living?

VSG: I adore the lady-like silhouettes of Dior, in the early years.

The Vintage Roadshow is back! And we're having a great time sharing vintage goodies. Check it out...

Debutante Clothing scours the web for booties with vintage appeal.

Freudian Slips Vintage showcases vintage Frank Usher dresses.

iKonic Vintage finds how-to videos on perfecting that vintage hairstyle.

Love blogging about vintage? Join the Vintage Roadshow!

Renee asks:

Hi Sandra!

I just stumbled across your blog on Google. Anyway, I was very intrigued when I read the 5 things about you because I am going to start teaching this fall and am concerned about my love of vintage and rockabilly fashions in such a conservative place. I have tattoos, but I have figured out ways to cover them, but it's the clothes themselves that are stumping me. I can find plenty of after work clothes, but clothes that are "teacher-looking" enough yet still retain some sense of my love of vintage/rockabilly are soooo hard to find. What kinds of stores did you shop at as a teacher or did you dress one way at work and another after work? I'm really for advice from someone who has been there/done that! How far did you let your fashion take you or did the job dictate for you a more conservative look? I hope to hear any advice or stories you would like to share. Renee

Hi Renee.
Oh this is such a good question! Thanks for contacting me. When I first started out teaching about 7 years ago, I looked a lot more Rockabilly. The rockabilly boys and girls at a high school I taught at were perplexed that a teacher could relate to their style. I don't necessarily wear vintage everyday, but definitely vintage inspired and I always try to wear some kind of vintage accessory. I love vintage above all else.

My suggestion would be to wear vintage inspired clothing: cute cardigans, A line skirts, 3/4 length sleeve tops, capri pants. I always wear comfy heels or adorable flats and mary janes. I've even worn the comfort/orthopedic kind because they are perfect for teachers who have to stand most of the day (and some don't look as matronly as they once did).

I wouldn't suggest patriotic rolls in my hair, but maybe wear some hair combs or a cute headband. Think cute 40s and 50s versus pin up. And yes! Keep those tattoos covered! But don't worry, there are many of us living the double life.

Good places to shop: Ann Taylor and Ann Taylor Loft, Old Navy, thrifts, Marshalls. I love shopping online too. Shopstyle.com and Reddressshoppe.com are a good ones also.

The trick is not to give up too much of your personal style, but still fit in with "normal" society. But the reality is that as long as you are not a distraction or showing skin inappropriately, principals won't care what you wear. Most of them anyway.

As a personal preference, I don't think it's appropriate to look costumey at work, no matter what your field. But that's just my personal taste.

Good luck Renee! Teachers are a blessing to this world. Even though the public education system can be a pain in the rear, the kids are what makes me come back.

Flipping through a collector's magazine, I came across a book that I wish had been around in my 20s when I painted the town in vintage - head to toe.

Vintage Hairstyling: Retro Styles with Modern Techniques by Lauren Rennells is filling a void left by Daniela Turudich's now out of print series of vintage hairstyle books. Lauren is a hair and make-up artist who works in the photography and film industry. She freelances providing unique designs for advertisements, films and television. Her passion for vintage hairstyles led her to write her incredibly useful book.

From cover to cover, the book is full of beautiful photography of vintage hair styling tools such as pink dryers and jars of Lustre-Creme. But this book is not a fluffy, pretty art book full of hair related pictures. The book is more instructional without being boring.

The beginning of the book walks you step by step through the necessary tools you will need and basic curl techniques in order to create a true vintage hairstyle. Then, Rennells leads you into the techniques for combing out the curls. Finally, you get into the actual styling.

I'm a very visual person. I have to see someone do something in order to determine if I am doing it correctly. The step by step directions with accompanying images are the next best thing to having Lauren right next to you. The steps are clear and concise.

Of course looking at all of the gorgeous models in their gorgeous hair dos made me pine for long hair again. But Lauren does not let us shorties down. She includes many hairstyles that are specifically for shorter hair, such as the Page Boy and Tiki Lounge, and many of the other styles are made to give long hair a fake short look. Her book is so good, she can even show you how to get fake bangs.

In order to get a better education on how to recreate vintage hairstyles, you'd have to enroll in beauty school. Lauren Rennells has really brought hair from the past into the reach of the modern girl.

Stay tuned for a very exciting contest involving hair, reading, learning and winning. Enough hints for you?

They say Marilyn Monroe was a size 12. Well, the 12 of the '50s is not the 12 of today. In fact, there is no standardized sizing system in place. I love going to the Gap or Old Navy and kidding myself that I am a size 6 when really I'm an 8.

When shopping online, especially for vintage clothing, it is very important to know your measurements before falling in love with a dress that won't fit. Here's a little video tutorial I created to help you figure out the dimensions of your curves!

Enjoy!

With the vintage Dior sale now under way at Yoox.com, Holly Brubach shares some insider tips on how to shop for vintage clothing. Holly has served as Style Editor at The New York Times Magazine and The New Yorker. She compiled a collection of her essays and published a book titled "A Dedicated Follower of Fashion". Currently, she is also a contributing editor for Vanity Fair and the Creative Consultant for YOOX. Is there anything she can't do?

Check out this special Q & A with the vintage expert...

What are a few statement pieces in the Dior sale?

A Haute Couture cocktail dress from the 1967 Spring Summer collection, which once belonged to Maria Felix, the legendary film star of the 1940s-1950s and devoted customer of Dior. The dress was purchased from Christie's of New York.

With the founder's death in 1957, Yves Saint Laurent took command of the Dior Empire adding a modern twist to Dior's excellence is portrayed in the gorgeous afternoon dress in giraffe print featured in the sale.

Dior's accessories are statement pieces within themselves. The crystal starburst earrings or the Brooch in Gold toned Metal with Cabochon Stones are truly eye catching pieces that can bring elegance to any outfit; whether it is paired with a pair of jeans, a suit, or an evening dress.

What do you believe are the best years of Christian Dior's work?

Certainly 1947, the launch of the New Look and its elaboration in subsequent seasons. But he remained a dominant force in fashion throughout the Fifties. All designers have their ups and downs, but I don't believe Dior had a "bad" collection. His career was cut short by his untimely death.

How should vintage be worn today?

The first rule of thumb is: not head-to-toe. It's important to mix vintage with contemporary, to integrate the old with the new in a way that doesn't call too much attention to the vintage item(s), just as an antique chair can become part of a modern room. Concentrate on the whole effect and not on a single piece. Many people treat vintage too formally, maybe because it's "precious." But one great way to make it seem completely timely is to pair it with jeans.

What accessories best go with a vintage outfit?

Ones that aren't of the same period. It's important to contrast the old and the new and, if the outfit has great presence, not to choose accessories that are self-important and compete with it.

What is the best way to shop for vintage?

Online! The vintage landscape has been transformed by the internet, bringing unique pieces to an avid audience. It's still worthwhile, making the rounds of the dealers, but it requires a lot of legwork and the best of them are scattered across too many cities for one person to cover.

How should vintage be cleaned and maintained?

With care! Find the best dry cleaner where you live, with a reputation for handling high fashion and a familiarity with different materials. The most fanatical collectors store their clothes in boxes, in acid-free tissue, to preserve items that are museum-worthy. But hanging vintage items that you wear often is fine.

If I buy vintage will I look old?

No, but that's a common fear. The crucial thing is to mix it. It requires a certain self-assurance to carry off wearing vintage. Perhaps that's why it's often associated with women who have great style.

How do you know if you are getting a deal with vintage pieces?

It helps to know a little history, which is easily accessible. As far as pricing is concerned, you can research what similar items from the same designers have sold for. But because pieces are often one-of-a-kind and the demand is competitive, the rule of thumb is the same as for anything else in fashion: if you love it enough, it's worth the price....

How can I wear vintage year round?

Some designers, like Emilio Pucci, specialized in resort wear and their looks translate easily into warm climates and seasons. Others, like Balenciaga, were better known for their coats and suits, more structured looks. Accessories are a great way to incorporate vintage into a summer wardrobe. Experiment with vintage jewelry, handbags and scarves to add an accent to the latest clothes in a way that's chic and personal. Dior's pieces are timeless and able to be worn year round, making them true fashion treasures to own.

Unless you are Dita Von Teese, wearing head to toe vintage isn't really practical for us normal folks, whatever normal means to you. I once went to a work related conference and met an adorable girl who was dressed in an equally adorable 50s dress, complete with crinoline. As cute as she was, at a work related event it may have been a bit much.

So how do you wear your beloved vintage with pride everyday? Here are a few tips to ensure you look great and not like you just walked off a period film set.

1. Customize

Looking stylish comes from a good fit. Even the fittest body will look frumpy in an ill-fitting garment. Take the time to find a good seamstress or tailor, or pull out your Singer to create a customized look. Be sure to hem trousers and skirts to a proper length for your body and look. 1960s youth wore shorter pants. If you're going for a sleek, mod look, express that to your tailor. He might not understand you want your pants that short.

Besides a proper fit, you can give an old garment new life by bringing it into the present. A beautiful maxi skirt can easily become a more flattering knee-length A-line. Shoulder pads screaming 80s boardroom? Snip them out. Vintage does not have to look dated.

2. Balance

With any look, dressing for the event is key to looking your best. As much as I would love to wear a frothy dress every day of the week, I would look just plain silly at a meeting.

For day, or work appropriate style, balance modern trousers with a 50s button down shirt, or a 60s shift dress with chic, modern pumps. Peppering your wardrobe with striking vintage pieces builds intrigue and style.

Evenings call for more daring looks. It is much more acceptable to wear vintage from top to bottom for a night out or to a special event. A strapless cocktail dress from the 50s would look perfectly appropriate paired with vintage rhinestone earrings and a sparkly clutch for a big event.

3. Accessorize

Olympia Dukakis in Steel Magnolias said it best-"The only thing that separates us from the animals is our ability to accessorize."

A simple black jersey dress or black suit can go from blah to bling with the right vintage accessories. Vintage tortoiseshell sunglasses, a wide 40s tie or a fedora can make a fella look dashing instantly.

Ladies are really in luck here because stunning accessories are so readily available at your local thrift store. A stunning necklace or five can make you look like Coco Chanel herself. Add a few rhinestone pins to a basic black cardigan and you will surely be the most stylish lady at the office.

4. Mix Decades

Don't be afraid of mixing a 1970s caftan with chunky 1940s bangles. Style transcends era. Dressing in one entire decade might look like you are wearing a costume rather than adding stylish elements to your wardrobe. There's nothing wrong with wearing an entire ensemble that came from a particular decade, but to keep your wardrobe looking fresh and interesting, mixing it up is the way to go.

5. Wear what you love

Regardless of decade, style or age, wearing pieces you love is the key to being fashionable. When you love what you wear, you get an instant dose of confidence. No one looks like you, and that's a good thing. You are in a league of your own because you dare to wear what no one else can own.

(photo - Elle.com)

My Google alerts have been brimming with exciting vintage tips. The Coveted has put together a great article on buying vintage clothing that I wanted to share with you. As usual , Jenine has beautiful images to go along with her tutorial.

Also, I wanted to dig out a past blog post on How to Shop for Vintage Online. Now you have the full vintage shopping arsenal at your disposal.

Happy shopping!

If you have ever been afraid of ruining a favorite vintage piece by washing it, never fear. Here are some dos and don'ts to think about before you take the plunge and wash or clean your vintage clothing.

• Do wash cottons and linens
It is fine to wash cottons and cotton blends yourself. The best way to do this is to hand wash each piece individually in cool to lukewarm water with a gentle fabric detergent. Ivory Snow, in powder form, Woolite or Dreft are safe choices.

• Don't agitate the clothing
Just let the article sit in the water, moving it only to make sure it is soaked completely.

• Don't over wash
When you are done wearing your favorite vintage piece, do not throw it in the hamper. Hang it up so it can breathe. Washing your vintage too much will lessen its life span.

• Do dry clean
If you don't know the fabric make up of your vintage piece, do not guess! Take it to a dry cleaner that understands older fabrics. Ask around and don't be afraid to ask dry cleaners questions about their knowledge and experience.

• Do use stain treaters (carefully)
If you have a stubborn stain, such as perspiration or unknown food, start with the least abrasive stain fighter -- lemon juice or white vinegar. These are natural whiteners. Once you have determined lemon juice hasn't worked, you can move on to harsher stain treatments such Oxyclean or Shout, but use sparingly or use a towel to apply on the spot.

• Don't spin dry
It is best to hang or drip-dry any garment. Dryers, even on gentle heat can damage delicate vintage fabrics. Items from the 80s could possibly do just fine in the dryer on delicate or air dry, but why take the chance?

Sunday, at brunch, I was telling the girls that lately I've been receiving emails from people asking me to help them pinpoint the era of beloved treasures - family photos, vintage accessories. Tink exclaimed, "You're a History Detective!". I had such a good time helping a gentleman figure out who the relatives were in a set of antique photographs. We were able to determine that the mystery family members were alive in the late 1800s due to their attire. He was able to determine who these folks were and what their relation was. He was so grateful and happy.

Just last week, a really nice woman named Monica contacted me from Italy and wanted to know about her Gucci medallion clutch. She was trying to decide if she should keep or sell her grandmother's bag. After I told her how much its current value is, she decided to keep the heirloom. The internet has really made it easy for people with specialized needs to connect with people who have specialized skills. It felt really good to help two people answer some questions that they may not have been able to answer if it weren't for the web.

In light of all this connecting, digging and detective work, I have decided to add a service to Debutante Clothing. If you have questions about a vintage item, especially if it involves fashion, please email me. The digging is what makes selling vintage fun!

Disclaimer: I am not a certified appraiser. I cannot give documentation establishing value for purposes of insuring. The only thing I can ethically (and probably legally) do is give you an estimate on how much the item has recently sold for or an approximate age and some background info, based on my years of experience and resources.

Debutante Reader, Catherine, asks:

Can you tell me a good resource for photos of and especially instructions on constructing glamorous 50s hairstyles a la Hayworth and Crawford? I'm thinking of those fabulous center parted rolls with the low maiden row in the back. Can't seem to find any good resources on the net but I found your site looking for dresses and I thought you might be able to help. thanks, catherine

Dear Catherine,
if it's damn good hair you seek, you've come to the right place. I've got a few links that will surely put a curl in your bangs.

http://www.nocturne.com/swing/hair/hair.html
http://www.vintagebybuttons.com/hairdo/hairdo.htm
http://pompsnpincurls.googlepages.com/home3

A fun little, quick and dirty tutorial video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2QyEWv4WDo

and if you live near LA, a great workshop:
http://www.revampvintage.com/hair-makeup.html

xo,
Sandra

Got a vintage question? If I don't know the answer, I can point you in the right direction. Ask away!