Debutante Clothing :: The Deblog :: A vintage clothing and fashion blog for unconventional style where vintage, street and runway meet.

Renee asks:

Hi Sandra!

I just stumbled across your blog on Google. Anyway, I was very intrigued when I read the 5 things about you because I am going to start teaching this fall and am concerned about my love of vintage and rockabilly fashions in such a conservative place. I have tattoos, but I have figured out ways to cover them, but it's the clothes themselves that are stumping me. I can find plenty of after work clothes, but clothes that are "teacher-looking" enough yet still retain some sense of my love of vintage/rockabilly are soooo hard to find. What kinds of stores did you shop at as a teacher or did you dress one way at work and another after work? I'm really for advice from someone who has been there/done that! How far did you let your fashion take you or did the job dictate for you a more conservative look? I hope to hear any advice or stories you would like to share. Renee

Hi Renee.
Oh this is such a good question! Thanks for contacting me. When I first started out teaching about 7 years ago, I looked a lot more Rockabilly. The rockabilly boys and girls at a high school I taught at were perplexed that a teacher could relate to their style. I don't necessarily wear vintage everyday, but definitely vintage inspired and I always try to wear some kind of vintage accessory. I love vintage above all else.

My suggestion would be to wear vintage inspired clothing: cute cardigans, A line skirts, 3/4 length sleeve tops, capri pants. I always wear comfy heels or adorable flats and mary janes. I've even worn the comfort/orthopedic kind because they are perfect for teachers who have to stand most of the day (and some don't look as matronly as they once did).

I wouldn't suggest patriotic rolls in my hair, but maybe wear some hair combs or a cute headband. Think cute 40s and 50s versus pin up. And yes! Keep those tattoos covered! But don't worry, there are many of us living the double life.

Good places to shop: Ann Taylor and Ann Taylor Loft, Old Navy, thrifts, Marshalls. I love shopping online too. Shopstyle.com and Reddressshoppe.com are a good ones also.

The trick is not to give up too much of your personal style, but still fit in with "normal" society. But the reality is that as long as you are not a distraction or showing skin inappropriately, principals won't care what you wear. Most of them anyway.

As a personal preference, I don't think it's appropriate to look costumey at work, no matter what your field. But that's just my personal taste.

Good luck Renee! Teachers are a blessing to this world. Even though the public education system can be a pain in the rear, the kids are what makes me come back.

Flipping through a collector's magazine, I came across a book that I wish had been around in my 20s when I painted the town in vintage - head to toe.

Vintage Hairstyling: Retro Styles with Modern Techniques by Lauren Rennells is filling a void left by Daniela Turudich's now out of print series of vintage hairstyle books. Lauren is a hair and make-up artist who works in the photography and film industry. She freelances providing unique designs for advertisements, films and television. Her passion for vintage hairstyles led her to write her incredibly useful book.

From cover to cover, the book is full of beautiful photography of vintage hair styling tools such as pink dryers and jars of Lustre-Creme. But this book is not a fluffy, pretty art book full of hair related pictures. The book is more instructional without being boring.

The beginning of the book walks you step by step through the necessary tools you will need and basic curl techniques in order to create a true vintage hairstyle. Then, Rennells leads you into the techniques for combing out the curls. Finally, you get into the actual styling.

I'm a very visual person. I have to see someone do something in order to determine if I am doing it correctly. The step by step directions with accompanying images are the next best thing to having Lauren right next to you. The steps are clear and concise.

Of course looking at all of the gorgeous models in their gorgeous hair dos made me pine for long hair again. But Lauren does not let us shorties down. She includes many hairstyles that are specifically for shorter hair, such as the Page Boy and Tiki Lounge, and many of the other styles are made to give long hair a fake short look. Her book is so good, she can even show you how to get fake bangs.

In order to get a better education on how to recreate vintage hairstyles, you'd have to enroll in beauty school. Lauren Rennells has really brought hair from the past into the reach of the modern girl.

Stay tuned for a very exciting contest involving hair, reading, learning and winning. Enough hints for you?

They say Marilyn Monroe was a size 12. Well, the 12 of the '50s is not the 12 of today. In fact, there is no standardized sizing system in place. I love going to the Gap or Old Navy and kidding myself that I am a size 6 when really I'm an 8.

When shopping online, especially for vintage clothing, it is very important to know your measurements before falling in love with a dress that won't fit. Here's a little video tutorial I created to help you figure out the dimensions of your curves!

Enjoy!

With the vintage Dior sale now under way at Yoox.com, Holly Brubach shares some insider tips on how to shop for vintage clothing. Holly has served as Style Editor at The New York Times Magazine and The New Yorker. She compiled a collection of her essays and published a book titled "A Dedicated Follower of Fashion". Currently, she is also a contributing editor for Vanity Fair and the Creative Consultant for YOOX. Is there anything she can't do?

Check out this special Q & A with the vintage expert...

What are a few statement pieces in the Dior sale?

A Haute Couture cocktail dress from the 1967 Spring Summer collection, which once belonged to Maria Felix, the legendary film star of the 1940s-1950s and devoted customer of Dior. The dress was purchased from Christie's of New York.

With the founder's death in 1957, Yves Saint Laurent took command of the Dior Empire adding a modern twist to Dior's excellence is portrayed in the gorgeous afternoon dress in giraffe print featured in the sale.

Dior's accessories are statement pieces within themselves. The crystal starburst earrings or the Brooch in Gold toned Metal with Cabochon Stones are truly eye catching pieces that can bring elegance to any outfit; whether it is paired with a pair of jeans, a suit, or an evening dress.

What do you believe are the best years of Christian Dior's work?

Certainly 1947, the launch of the New Look and its elaboration in subsequent seasons. But he remained a dominant force in fashion throughout the Fifties. All designers have their ups and downs, but I don't believe Dior had a "bad" collection. His career was cut short by his untimely death.

How should vintage be worn today?

The first rule of thumb is: not head-to-toe. It's important to mix vintage with contemporary, to integrate the old with the new in a way that doesn't call too much attention to the vintage item(s), just as an antique chair can become part of a modern room. Concentrate on the whole effect and not on a single piece. Many people treat vintage too formally, maybe because it's "precious." But one great way to make it seem completely timely is to pair it with jeans.

What accessories best go with a vintage outfit?

Ones that aren't of the same period. It's important to contrast the old and the new and, if the outfit has great presence, not to choose accessories that are self-important and compete with it.

What is the best way to shop for vintage?

Online! The vintage landscape has been transformed by the internet, bringing unique pieces to an avid audience. It's still worthwhile, making the rounds of the dealers, but it requires a lot of legwork and the best of them are scattered across too many cities for one person to cover.

How should vintage be cleaned and maintained?

With care! Find the best dry cleaner where you live, with a reputation for handling high fashion and a familiarity with different materials. The most fanatical collectors store their clothes in boxes, in acid-free tissue, to preserve items that are museum-worthy. But hanging vintage items that you wear often is fine.

If I buy vintage will I look old?

No, but that's a common fear. The crucial thing is to mix it. It requires a certain self-assurance to carry off wearing vintage. Perhaps that's why it's often associated with women who have great style.

How do you know if you are getting a deal with vintage pieces?

It helps to know a little history, which is easily accessible. As far as pricing is concerned, you can research what similar items from the same designers have sold for. But because pieces are often one-of-a-kind and the demand is competitive, the rule of thumb is the same as for anything else in fashion: if you love it enough, it's worth the price....

How can I wear vintage year round?

Some designers, like Emilio Pucci, specialized in resort wear and their looks translate easily into warm climates and seasons. Others, like Balenciaga, were better known for their coats and suits, more structured looks. Accessories are a great way to incorporate vintage into a summer wardrobe. Experiment with vintage jewelry, handbags and scarves to add an accent to the latest clothes in a way that's chic and personal. Dior's pieces are timeless and able to be worn year round, making them true fashion treasures to own.

Unless you are Dita Von Teese, wearing head to toe vintage isn't really practical for us normal folks, whatever normal means to you. I once went to a work related conference and met an adorable girl who was dressed in an equally adorable 50s dress, complete with crinoline. As cute as she was, at a work related event it may have been a bit much.

So how do you wear your beloved vintage with pride everyday? Here are a few tips to ensure you look great and not like you just walked off a period film set.

1. Customize

Looking stylish comes from a good fit. Even the fittest body will look frumpy in an ill-fitting garment. Take the time to find a good seamstress or tailor, or pull out your Singer to create a customized look. Be sure to hem trousers and skirts to a proper length for your body and look. 1960s youth wore shorter pants. If you're going for a sleek, mod look, express that to your tailor. He might not understand you want your pants that short.

Besides a proper fit, you can give an old garment new life by bringing it into the present. A beautiful maxi skirt can easily become a more flattering knee-length A-line. Shoulder pads screaming 80s boardroom? Snip them out. Vintage does not have to look dated.

2. Balance

With any look, dressing for the event is key to looking your best. As much as I would love to wear a frothy dress every day of the week, I would look just plain silly at a meeting.

For day, or work appropriate style, balance modern trousers with a 50s button down shirt, or a 60s shift dress with chic, modern pumps. Peppering your wardrobe with striking vintage pieces builds intrigue and style.

Evenings call for more daring looks. It is much more acceptable to wear vintage from top to bottom for a night out or to a special event. A strapless cocktail dress from the 50s would look perfectly appropriate paired with vintage rhinestone earrings and a sparkly clutch for a big event.

3. Accessorize

Olympia Dukakis in Steel Magnolias said it best-"The only thing that separates us from the animals is our ability to accessorize."

A simple black jersey dress or black suit can go from blah to bling with the right vintage accessories. Vintage tortoiseshell sunglasses, a wide 40s tie or a fedora can make a fella look dashing instantly.

Ladies are really in luck here because stunning accessories are so readily available at your local thrift store. A stunning necklace or five can make you look like Coco Chanel herself. Add a few rhinestone pins to a basic black cardigan and you will surely be the most stylish lady at the office.

4. Mix Decades

Don't be afraid of mixing a 1970s caftan with chunky 1940s bangles. Style transcends era. Dressing in one entire decade might look like you are wearing a costume rather than adding stylish elements to your wardrobe. There's nothing wrong with wearing an entire ensemble that came from a particular decade, but to keep your wardrobe looking fresh and interesting, mixing it up is the way to go.

5. Wear what you love

Regardless of decade, style or age, wearing pieces you love is the key to being fashionable. When you love what you wear, you get an instant dose of confidence. No one looks like you, and that's a good thing. You are in a league of your own because you dare to wear what no one else can own.

(photo - Elle.com)

My Google alerts have been brimming with exciting vintage tips. The Coveted has put together a great article on buying vintage clothing that I wanted to share with you. As usual , Jenine has beautiful images to go along with her tutorial.

Also, I wanted to dig out a past blog post on How to Shop for Vintage Online. Now you have the full vintage shopping arsenal at your disposal.

Happy shopping!

If you have ever been afraid of ruining a favorite vintage piece by washing it, never fear. Here are some dos and don'ts to think about before you take the plunge and wash or clean your vintage clothing.

• Do wash cottons and linens
It is fine to wash cottons and cotton blends yourself. The best way to do this is to hand wash each piece individually in cool to lukewarm water with a gentle fabric detergent. Ivory Snow, in powder form, Woolite or Dreft are safe choices.

• Don't agitate the clothing
Just let the article sit in the water, moving it only to make sure it is soaked completely.

• Don't over wash
When you are done wearing your favorite vintage piece, do not throw it in the hamper. Hang it up so it can breathe. Washing your vintage too much will lessen its life span.

• Do dry clean
If you don't know the fabric make up of your vintage piece, do not guess! Take it to a dry cleaner that understands older fabrics. Ask around and don't be afraid to ask dry cleaners questions about their knowledge and experience.

• Do use stain treaters (carefully)
If you have a stubborn stain, such as perspiration or unknown food, start with the least abrasive stain fighter -- lemon juice or white vinegar. These are natural whiteners. Once you have determined lemon juice hasn't worked, you can move on to harsher stain treatments such Oxyclean or Shout, but use sparingly or use a towel to apply on the spot.

• Don't spin dry
It is best to hang or drip-dry any garment. Dryers, even on gentle heat can damage delicate vintage fabrics. Items from the 80s could possibly do just fine in the dryer on delicate or air dry, but why take the chance?

Sunday, at brunch, I was telling the girls that lately I've been receiving emails from people asking me to help them pinpoint the era of beloved treasures - family photos, vintage accessories. Tink exclaimed, "You're a History Detective!". I had such a good time helping a gentleman figure out who the relatives were in a set of antique photographs. We were able to determine that the mystery family members were alive in the late 1800s due to their attire. He was able to determine who these folks were and what their relation was. He was so grateful and happy.

Just last week, a really nice woman named Monica contacted me from Italy and wanted to know about her Gucci medallion clutch. She was trying to decide if she should keep or sell her grandmother's bag. After I told her how much its current value is, she decided to keep the heirloom. The internet has really made it easy for people with specialized needs to connect with people who have specialized skills. It felt really good to help two people answer some questions that they may not have been able to answer if it weren't for the web.

In light of all this connecting, digging and detective work, I have decided to add a service to Debutante Clothing. If you have questions about a vintage item, especially if it involves fashion, please email me. The digging is what makes selling vintage fun!

Disclaimer: I am not a certified appraiser. I cannot give documentation establishing value for purposes of insuring. The only thing I can ethically (and probably legally) do is give you an estimate on how much the item has recently sold for or an approximate age and some background info, based on my years of experience and resources.

Debutante Reader, Catherine, asks:

Can you tell me a good resource for photos of and especially instructions on constructing glamorous 50s hairstyles a la Hayworth and Crawford? I'm thinking of those fabulous center parted rolls with the low maiden row in the back. Can't seem to find any good resources on the net but I found your site looking for dresses and I thought you might be able to help. thanks, catherine

Dear Catherine,
if it's damn good hair you seek, you've come to the right place. I've got a few links that will surely put a curl in your bangs.

http://www.nocturne.com/swing/hair/hair.html
http://www.vintagebybuttons.com/hairdo/hairdo.htm
http://pompsnpincurls.googlepages.com/home3

A fun little, quick and dirty tutorial video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2QyEWv4WDo

and if you live near LA, a great workshop:
http://www.revampvintage.com/hair-makeup.html

xo,
Sandra

Got a vintage question? If I don't know the answer, I can point you in the right direction. Ask away!