‘Couture’, 1990s – Trends in Vintage To Keep and Say Buh Bye To
As 2009 comes to an end, and we enter the next decade, it’s time to take inventory and make way for a fresh start. Even for those of us that live in the past, we are willing to get rid of some of the old to make way for the new.
The always entertaining and discerning fashion journalist Adam Tschorn of the LA Times Image section has written his hit list of 2009 trends he’d like to say goodbye to. So many of his pet peeves are very related to some of my observations in the vintage marketplace. I took Adam’s list and gave it a vintage spin. Here’s my list of trends in vintage fashion I would love to see go away, with some overlap on Adam’s list of related trends I think will live one more year.
These temporary shops were intended to build buzz and exclusivity. I think temporary shopping locations will evolve beyond Target and Gap. Vintage sellers and indie designers will follow retailers’ lead. With the economy tanking, storefronts and studio spaces are becoming extremely affordable. It would behoove a property manager or building owner to rent a space out for a limited, short lease to vintage sellers and indie designers. The idea of a vintage pop-up sale is not new. Market Publique recently hosted one in Brooklyn. I think they will grow in popularity amongst vintage sellers and buyers.
Amen Adam! I don’t know if it is lack of education or sneaky marketing. Either way, touting vintage clothing or accessories as couture when they are merely designer pieces, and mid-line level at that, drives me insane. Mostly because these fraudulent pieces are priced at couture prices. If you are in the market for haute couture, ensure that the label is first of all French, has an extremely high level of construction, and to be safe, has the hand written label in the garment.
I agree with Adam on this one. Curating a collection has gone from merchandising for the ideal customer to cherry picking with no rhyme or reason in the retail world. But I have to disagree that a flea market booth, and I will include a vintage boutique or online store, cannot be curated. Successful vintage sellers must have criteria for inventory. This can include condition, age, wearability, worth, lifestyle. There is most definitely a thought process involved. Without one, you have a mountain of dime-a-dozen frocks that are destined for EBay $9.99 auctions. In fact, with so much competition, it makes sense to curate and find a niche in vintage. For the vintage world, curating is a trend that needs to be exercised more frequently.
100% in agreement with Adam. Hepburn, Denevue, Jackie O. – icons. Everyone else – admirable style but time will tell.
I don’t mind retro because it brings the curious and fashion forward to the vintage side. Give me more Mad Men style. Retro in mass media can have an influence on lifestyle as well. I’m seeing a lot more interest in mid-century home décor, a lot more “dressing” for cocktails and dinner. So what if it’s a sequined jacket or top-dressed down with skinny jeans. At least the effort is being made. Keep retro.
About a year ago, I got on this obsessive-compulsive 90210 on SOAP channel kick. Two hours a day, every weekday, of Brenda, Dylan, Kelly, Brandon, Donna, Steve, and David. Apparently so did everyone else under the age of 30. Baby doll floral dresses and short, bandage strapped dresses started hitting EBay like mad. These aren’t vintage though. Vintage should be at least 20 years old. In 2010, we are now entering the barely acceptable range for ’90s clothes to be considered vintage. I hate to be a purist here, but it’s just not vintage. Just call it retro. And let’s leave the ’90s for the young. Only they can pull it off.
Platforms haven’t gone out of style since the 1940s. Can we still call this a trend? I say kill Uggs first. Mr. Blahnik is certainly the stiletto rebel lately – declaring he’s over the platform and walking away from Sex And The City 2? I’m certain comfort and well-placed fantasy footwear will survive the rebellion. The platform is not a trend – it’s a staple.
Spending guilt/Thinking it over
The recession has really made us fear spending. Even when I can afford something, I second guess myself, or feel wretched for having spent that much. When it comes to vintage, if you spot a treasure and you can still pay your mortgage, jump on it and deal with the guilt later. Even as a professional, I have “slept on” vintage finds and have kicked myself 9 out of 10 times for not having purchased the item because when I finally got the guts to spend, it was gone. Responsible shopping wins every time.
photos: marketpublique.com and enokiworld.com